Whether "winter weather" means highs in the 30s (as it does for my brother, a resident of Denver since June) or in the 60s (as it does for me in Placentia, a town eight miles north of Disneyland), it's likely that many of us have a big-time hankering for comfort fare at this time of the year. If you're craving the likes of meat loaf, pot roast, stew, chili, chicken and dumplings, pork chops, cheesy casseroles, mac 'n' cheese, or mashed potatoes these days, take heart: There's a wide array of hearty, savory, and affordable wines that pair effortlessly with your homespun culinary favorites. Here's one that my husband and I especially enjoy:
VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET '06 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/RHONE: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
It's no secret: I love unpretentious reds with plenty of easy-going, peppery rusticity -- in other words, anything with that appealing Cotes du Rhone vibe. Similar to the recently reviewed Cabrini Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza in its warmth and spice is this approachable Cab. Even though this red's grapes are sourced from Saint-Jean-d'Ardieres, a village that straddles northern and southern Rhone, its casual and spunky soul are undeniably southern. Its lovely tawny-garnet color and intense nose of ripe currants, plums, grilled meat, and peppercorns entice, while flavors of dry blackberries and currants join essences of cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and smoke. Firm but nicely integrated tannins add structure to the wine's supple, medium-sized body, as well as a mellow, peppery finish that lingers for minutes. And even though the Romanet Cab would be a slam dunk with any time-honored comfort-food entree, don't even think of wasting a wine of this caliber on a bowl of SpaghettiO's.
Monday, December 29, 2008
A Cotes du Rhone from Mendoza? That's right
The last time I rambled on about Southern California's weather, it was about six weeks ago in mid-November. That was when triple-digit heat and bone-dry gusts teamed up to produce some scary firestorms throughout the region. Since then, the weather here has pulled a U-turn for the holidays, with the mecury barely touching 55 during the day and in the low 30s at night. But no matter whether you regard this weather as invigorating (I do) or nasty (the view of about 70 percent of locals), you're probably going to crave a hearty, earthy, rustic red with your winter dinners. Here's one that'll pair wonderfully with your comfort-food favorites and warm your innards:
CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12
I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.
CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12
I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Opulence meets elegance: a lovely, full-bodied South African Chardonnay
As many wine fans know well, the move away from aggressive "oaking" in New World regions is well underway -- and not a moment too soon. Over the last few decades, varietals that had the potential to benefit with ageing in oak barrels had become unbalanced, heavy-handed brutes that conflict with the very entrees they were intended to complement. Is it any wonder why I agree with the European winemaking credo of leaving Mother Nature alone while she creates wine?
As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).
BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.
As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).
BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.
Friday, November 7, 2008
There's no better time for this elegant red for all seasons
The sense of dislocation of middle autumn in southern California can only be described as mind-boggling. Where else in the greater 48 can you experience 90-degree November days, with Santa Ana winds arid enough to make you crave a Calamine bath? (To the unintiated, this is what meteorologists call "fire weather," the combination of intense heat and dryness that causes entire communities to burst into flames at this time every year.) Now imagine what it's like to park your car, cross the parking lot with that heat and those high winds leaving you sweaty and tousled, wander into your neighborhood grocery store, and walk right into an end-cap display brimming with decorative horns o' plenty and Santas.
Welcome to the traditional start of southern California's holiday season.
Yes, I'm very aware that this country's weather is as variable as any on the planet. While locals here roast and endure 58-mph gusts (that's what I've just read on a local news source), the Midwest is getting hammered by an early snowstorm, and residents in the Northeast are just digging out from several days of heavy rain. Yet no matter where American oenophiles live, most of them still want a glass of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Grenache, Sangiovese, or another light red with their dinner. That preference is easy to understand, since they've probably quaffed easy-drinking whites, roses, and bubblies for the last six months to beat the heat and humidity.
So what'll satisfy wine fans not yet ready to plunge into heavyweights Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, or Bordeaux for the next five months ... and, come to think of it, be a star on Turkey Day?
REGNARD HAUT COTES DE BEAUNE PINOT NOIR 2005/CHABLIS: ABOUT $15
100% Pinot Noir. In 1860, Zephir Regnard founded his winemaking business, a house that would later become of the most prestigious in the Chablis sub-region. Baron Patrick de Ladoucette bought Regnaud in 1984, ensuring its dedication to producing wines of classic style and tradition. The essence of a classic red Burgundy is a haunting, unforgettable melding of purity, delicacy, and earthiness, and this ethereal beauty from Baron de Ladoucette has those qualities in abundance: a gossamer-light bouquet and palate of Bing cherries, lilacs, roses, mushrooms, black pepper, and freshly tilled earth. With its pale ruby hue, fragile body, surprising grip on the mid-palate, and an ever-lasting finish with subtle spices. It summarizes everything that this varietal from this famed region should be. It acts like a premier cru with a price tag of at least $50, yet numerous retailers have it on their shelves in the $15 neighborhood. If you haven't had the chance to sample a quality Burgundy, take the plunge. (Dare we suggest that its elegance and balance would make it a hit on your Thanksgiving table?)
Welcome to the traditional start of southern California's holiday season.
Yes, I'm very aware that this country's weather is as variable as any on the planet. While locals here roast and endure 58-mph gusts (that's what I've just read on a local news source), the Midwest is getting hammered by an early snowstorm, and residents in the Northeast are just digging out from several days of heavy rain. Yet no matter where American oenophiles live, most of them still want a glass of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Grenache, Sangiovese, or another light red with their dinner. That preference is easy to understand, since they've probably quaffed easy-drinking whites, roses, and bubblies for the last six months to beat the heat and humidity.
So what'll satisfy wine fans not yet ready to plunge into heavyweights Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, or Bordeaux for the next five months ... and, come to think of it, be a star on Turkey Day?
REGNARD HAUT COTES DE BEAUNE PINOT NOIR 2005/CHABLIS: ABOUT $15
100% Pinot Noir. In 1860, Zephir Regnard founded his winemaking business, a house that would later become of the most prestigious in the Chablis sub-region. Baron Patrick de Ladoucette bought Regnaud in 1984, ensuring its dedication to producing wines of classic style and tradition. The essence of a classic red Burgundy is a haunting, unforgettable melding of purity, delicacy, and earthiness, and this ethereal beauty from Baron de Ladoucette has those qualities in abundance: a gossamer-light bouquet and palate of Bing cherries, lilacs, roses, mushrooms, black pepper, and freshly tilled earth. With its pale ruby hue, fragile body, surprising grip on the mid-palate, and an ever-lasting finish with subtle spices. It summarizes everything that this varietal from this famed region should be. It acts like a premier cru with a price tag of at least $50, yet numerous retailers have it on their shelves in the $15 neighborhood. If you haven't had the chance to sample a quality Burgundy, take the plunge. (Dare we suggest that its elegance and balance would make it a hit on your Thanksgiving table?)
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Meet Agiorgitiko: a cheerful Greek with great "match appeal"
Suppose you’re in the mood for a red, and Indian summer’s still in full tilt. Big boys such as Syrah, Malbec, or Cabernet Sauvignon won’t do, nor will bantamweights Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, especially if that’s nearly all you’ve sipped the last six months. What to pour?
Once again, I’ll repeat my oenological mantra: Think outside the bottle. Few varietals would fit the bill better than Agiorgitiko, a nervy red grape with a lively streak of acidity. It’s a native of the Peloponnese, a region in southern Greece south of the Gulf of Corinth that’s nurtured by the plentiful sun and warmth that defines the Mediterranean climate.
The region’s soil, on the other hand, is barren and dry as any on the planet – an unlikely setting to cultivate vineyards. However, while the Agiorgitiko grape features the same lightness and fruitiness of its ever-popular sibling Pinot Noir, it requires none of its care. “(Pinot) is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early,” says the Miles Raymond character in Sideways, adding that it “needs constant care and attention … and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.” On the contrary, Agiorgitiko develops its vibrant freshness in conditions – desolate soil and intense, searing sun – that’d destroy the delicate likes of Pinot Noir.
What does Agiorgitiko offer? Plenty. Its classic trademarks include exuberant, fresh-from-the-vine scents and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, an array of zesty spices, a light body, and tangy acidity. It’s a young soul, this varietal, one with an irrepressibly cheerful and spunky demeanor. Thanks to its self-reliant nature, one of its most appealing features is its appealing price tag, usually around the $10 neighborhood. Even though it’s a staple on wine lists of Greek restaurants coast to coast, Agiorgitiko is at home with any fare usually paired with Pinot Noir and other light reds. Here’s one that’s one of our favorites:
ACHAIA CLAUSS DRY RED WINE “DANIELIS” NV/PATRAS: ABOUT $12
100% Agiorgitiko. In 1854, native Bavarian Gustav Clauss visited Patras, a region in northwestern Peloponnese, and liked it so much he chose to settle there. The first wines he produced there were Mavrodaphne – a sweet red grape transplanted from the Ionian Islands – and Muscat of Patras. In 1861, seven years after putting down roots in his new land and creating his wines, Gustav built the Achaia Clauss winery. More than 150 years later, it’s one of Greece’s best-known wineries, with a portfolio that features 32 different wines and four spirits than run the gamut from young, refreshing quaffers to boutique-style wines with power and depth. Gustav, we think, would truly enjoy sipping a glass of his “Danielis,” a soft, spunky red that shows the charm of the Agiorgitiko grape. Spunky red fruit, ginger, and a zippy touch of pepper dance all over the palate. Versatility is its calling card, as welcome at a holiday dinner as on a picnic.
Once again, I’ll repeat my oenological mantra: Think outside the bottle. Few varietals would fit the bill better than Agiorgitiko, a nervy red grape with a lively streak of acidity. It’s a native of the Peloponnese, a region in southern Greece south of the Gulf of Corinth that’s nurtured by the plentiful sun and warmth that defines the Mediterranean climate.
The region’s soil, on the other hand, is barren and dry as any on the planet – an unlikely setting to cultivate vineyards. However, while the Agiorgitiko grape features the same lightness and fruitiness of its ever-popular sibling Pinot Noir, it requires none of its care. “(Pinot) is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early,” says the Miles Raymond character in Sideways, adding that it “needs constant care and attention … and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.” On the contrary, Agiorgitiko develops its vibrant freshness in conditions – desolate soil and intense, searing sun – that’d destroy the delicate likes of Pinot Noir.
What does Agiorgitiko offer? Plenty. Its classic trademarks include exuberant, fresh-from-the-vine scents and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, an array of zesty spices, a light body, and tangy acidity. It’s a young soul, this varietal, one with an irrepressibly cheerful and spunky demeanor. Thanks to its self-reliant nature, one of its most appealing features is its appealing price tag, usually around the $10 neighborhood. Even though it’s a staple on wine lists of Greek restaurants coast to coast, Agiorgitiko is at home with any fare usually paired with Pinot Noir and other light reds. Here’s one that’s one of our favorites:
ACHAIA CLAUSS DRY RED WINE “DANIELIS” NV/PATRAS: ABOUT $12
100% Agiorgitiko. In 1854, native Bavarian Gustav Clauss visited Patras, a region in northwestern Peloponnese, and liked it so much he chose to settle there. The first wines he produced there were Mavrodaphne – a sweet red grape transplanted from the Ionian Islands – and Muscat of Patras. In 1861, seven years after putting down roots in his new land and creating his wines, Gustav built the Achaia Clauss winery. More than 150 years later, it’s one of Greece’s best-known wineries, with a portfolio that features 32 different wines and four spirits than run the gamut from young, refreshing quaffers to boutique-style wines with power and depth. Gustav, we think, would truly enjoy sipping a glass of his “Danielis,” a soft, spunky red that shows the charm of the Agiorgitiko grape. Spunky red fruit, ginger, and a zippy touch of pepper dance all over the palate. Versatility is its calling card, as welcome at a holiday dinner as on a picnic.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
So you want a snappy bargain wine? Here's one for toasty weather
It's been brutal in southern California these last few days, with mid-day temperatures nearing the century mark and violent, dry Santa Ana windstorms searing throats. "Fire weather" is what locals term these disagreeable conditions, since the terrain in this region has the unfortunate tendency to go up in flames at around this time each year.
As if the climate isn't enough for people here to contend with, consider the economy. I call the mess a total collapse, while my 84-year-old parents say it's worse than the original Great Depression they remember as elementary-school kids. It's ugly everywhere, but few places nastier than here in Orange County, the unofficial headquarters of the mortgage, financial, and contracting industries on the west coast. Rarely a day passes without news of a local mortgage or financial firm slashing drastic numbers of staffers, many to battle personal financial crises they'd never imagined.
Even for those who haven't had things so rough, the economic climate is nevertheless a definite downer. What's an oenophile to do when Wall Street takes massive belly flops of several hundred points each day?
Here's my advice: Think outside the box -- ahem, bottle -- for maximum quality for a minimal price. Over the last year, wine pundits have enthusiastically pointed to Spain and Portugal as superb sources for excellent, extremely affordable juice. The Better Half and I, long fans of tantalizingly priced Riojas, nod in agreement.
With that, here's what to pour when both the heat and the economic collapse get their angry on:
ALIANCA CASAL MENDES VINHO BRANCO NV/VINHO VERDE: ABOUT $6
Pederna and Azal Branco (both unidentified quantities). Alianca was founded in 1927 by Portugal's Bairrada Dellimited Region. According to Daniel Sogg of Wine Spectator, Alianca is one of the 20 best wine companies in the world. "Alianca is a family company that is one of the most advanced and modern wine producers in Portugal," he points out, of which "the quality has been a guide in the path to success on the recent crops." The wine companies honored offer stunning value, as well as distinctive flavors for the varietals from the region's leading wine regions. Casal Mendes' Vinho Branco stands out as a perfect Exhibit A of the concept of top quality for a song: Two workhorse white grapes -- Pederna and Azal Branco, both bit players in white Port and lighter white Portuguese blends -- lend their fresh appeal. Starting with its delicate straw color and its tempting scents of fresh citrus, it offers tangy, light flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, and kiwi, as well as a lovely lift of acidity and a spunky, peppy finish of ginger and star anise. It's just the thing with a sizable range of fare: poultry, halibut, mahi mahi, sushi, and an array of cheese-based vegetarian entrees. Then again, it's great as a preprandial sipper, a way to take off the edge on a hot, gusty day. Best of all is its price tag: $6 or under, for a 750 ml bottle, at better wine shops.
As if the climate isn't enough for people here to contend with, consider the economy. I call the mess a total collapse, while my 84-year-old parents say it's worse than the original Great Depression they remember as elementary-school kids. It's ugly everywhere, but few places nastier than here in Orange County, the unofficial headquarters of the mortgage, financial, and contracting industries on the west coast. Rarely a day passes without news of a local mortgage or financial firm slashing drastic numbers of staffers, many to battle personal financial crises they'd never imagined.
Even for those who haven't had things so rough, the economic climate is nevertheless a definite downer. What's an oenophile to do when Wall Street takes massive belly flops of several hundred points each day?
Here's my advice: Think outside the box -- ahem, bottle -- for maximum quality for a minimal price. Over the last year, wine pundits have enthusiastically pointed to Spain and Portugal as superb sources for excellent, extremely affordable juice. The Better Half and I, long fans of tantalizingly priced Riojas, nod in agreement.
With that, here's what to pour when both the heat and the economic collapse get their angry on:
ALIANCA CASAL MENDES VINHO BRANCO NV/VINHO VERDE: ABOUT $6
Pederna and Azal Branco (both unidentified quantities). Alianca was founded in 1927 by Portugal's Bairrada Dellimited Region. According to Daniel Sogg of Wine Spectator, Alianca is one of the 20 best wine companies in the world. "Alianca is a family company that is one of the most advanced and modern wine producers in Portugal," he points out, of which "the quality has been a guide in the path to success on the recent crops." The wine companies honored offer stunning value, as well as distinctive flavors for the varietals from the region's leading wine regions. Casal Mendes' Vinho Branco stands out as a perfect Exhibit A of the concept of top quality for a song: Two workhorse white grapes -- Pederna and Azal Branco, both bit players in white Port and lighter white Portuguese blends -- lend their fresh appeal. Starting with its delicate straw color and its tempting scents of fresh citrus, it offers tangy, light flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, and kiwi, as well as a lovely lift of acidity and a spunky, peppy finish of ginger and star anise. It's just the thing with a sizable range of fare: poultry, halibut, mahi mahi, sushi, and an array of cheese-based vegetarian entrees. Then again, it's great as a preprandial sipper, a way to take off the edge on a hot, gusty day. Best of all is its price tag: $6 or under, for a 750 ml bottle, at better wine shops.
Monday, October 20, 2008
After an enforced sabbatical, I'm ready for the good stuff
Many apologies for being away so long.
Not only did our computer go on the fritz for several days last week, I did, too: An early-season flu KO'ed me Oct. 10, leaving me with the mental and physical energy of a garden slug. As a result, I took a week-long sabbatical from wine, downing TheraFlu Severe Cold Formula, NyQuil, and Early Times toddies. (Why deplete what little there is of your tiny wine collection when you know full well that your taste buds wouldn't be able to discern Arbor Mist from '61 Petrus?) By now, I'm almost back to normal, as is my palate ... provided it hasn't been assaulted too badly by a week's worth of cold meds. No matter: I'll talk about one of my top wine finds of the year, one that The Better Half and I discovered at the end of July.
On the last Sunday of July, we made the 100-mile drive to Julian, a rustic 19th-century mining town 4,235 feet above sea level in northeastern San Diego County. About 1,600 folks are year-round residents of this artsy-quaint locale, an official California Historic Landmark that bursts its seams each autumn with tourists celebrating the town's Apple Days festival. After about three hours of hoofing around town that sun-splashed afternoon checking out the town's historic sites, we strolled into the tasting room of Witch Creek Winery (http://www.witchcreekwinery.com/) to see for ourselves what was behind the wines' eye-catching labels.
WITCH CREEK WINERY 2006 AGLIANICO/VALLE DE GUADALUPE: $16
Established 15 years ago in Carlsbad, Witch Creek Winery is named after a small waterway near the northern San Diego County town of Ramona. The winery itself sources its grapes from some rather esoteric regions, most notably Valle de Guadalupe in northwestern Mexico, roughly 14 miles north of Ensenada. The fruit goes into small-production wines, termed by their vignerons as "rich, full bodied, and well balanced." While oenophiles can find plenty of pleasure from Witch Creek's reserve Cab, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc, it's the lesser-known varietals that really sing. (Kudos to the Wodehouse family, the founders of Witch Creek Winery, for having the vision to go with a host of Italian and Spanish grapes -- Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese, for starters -- that thrive in their Californian and Mexican vineyards.) The star of the show, however, is the '06 Aglianico. If the name of the varietal doesn't ring a bell, don't fret; it's a grape from the southern Italian regions of Campania and Basilicata that nearly always ends up in a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In its Italian incarnation, Aglianico makes for hearty, boisterous, full-flavored drinking -- which, interestingly, is the polar opposite of its Mexican counterpart.
Pretty, soft, and exquisitely balanced are the words we repeated as we plumbed the Aglianico's character. The juice is truly a charmer, starting with its ruby-red hue and continuing with its appealing, fresh nose of Bing cherries, raspberries, and crabapples. Add lovely and subtle hints of black pepper, cloves, leather, and smoke to the appealing fruit flavors -- as well as a supple, rounded notes of lilac and pepper on the gently lingering finish -- and you've found a genuinely food-worthy wine with more pairing possibilities than can be imagined. It'll drink well, and distinctively, for another three or four years. (Need more info? The '06 Aglianico was awarded a bronze medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition earlier this year.)
Is there a negative side to this beauty? Sadly, yes: The manager of the Julian tasting room told us that the head folks at Witch Creek make sure that their wine is available only at their tasting sites (Julian and Carlsbad), or by phone or online order. On the other hand, its modest price tag -- $20 -- more than compensates for its relative inaccessibility.
After finishing this entry, I'm more than ready to make toddies a thing of the past.
Not only did our computer go on the fritz for several days last week, I did, too: An early-season flu KO'ed me Oct. 10, leaving me with the mental and physical energy of a garden slug. As a result, I took a week-long sabbatical from wine, downing TheraFlu Severe Cold Formula, NyQuil, and Early Times toddies. (Why deplete what little there is of your tiny wine collection when you know full well that your taste buds wouldn't be able to discern Arbor Mist from '61 Petrus?) By now, I'm almost back to normal, as is my palate ... provided it hasn't been assaulted too badly by a week's worth of cold meds. No matter: I'll talk about one of my top wine finds of the year, one that The Better Half and I discovered at the end of July.
On the last Sunday of July, we made the 100-mile drive to Julian, a rustic 19th-century mining town 4,235 feet above sea level in northeastern San Diego County. About 1,600 folks are year-round residents of this artsy-quaint locale, an official California Historic Landmark that bursts its seams each autumn with tourists celebrating the town's Apple Days festival. After about three hours of hoofing around town that sun-splashed afternoon checking out the town's historic sites, we strolled into the tasting room of Witch Creek Winery (http://www.witchcreekwinery.com/) to see for ourselves what was behind the wines' eye-catching labels.
WITCH CREEK WINERY 2006 AGLIANICO/VALLE DE GUADALUPE: $16
Established 15 years ago in Carlsbad, Witch Creek Winery is named after a small waterway near the northern San Diego County town of Ramona. The winery itself sources its grapes from some rather esoteric regions, most notably Valle de Guadalupe in northwestern Mexico, roughly 14 miles north of Ensenada. The fruit goes into small-production wines, termed by their vignerons as "rich, full bodied, and well balanced." While oenophiles can find plenty of pleasure from Witch Creek's reserve Cab, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc, it's the lesser-known varietals that really sing. (Kudos to the Wodehouse family, the founders of Witch Creek Winery, for having the vision to go with a host of Italian and Spanish grapes -- Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese, for starters -- that thrive in their Californian and Mexican vineyards.) The star of the show, however, is the '06 Aglianico. If the name of the varietal doesn't ring a bell, don't fret; it's a grape from the southern Italian regions of Campania and Basilicata that nearly always ends up in a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In its Italian incarnation, Aglianico makes for hearty, boisterous, full-flavored drinking -- which, interestingly, is the polar opposite of its Mexican counterpart.
Pretty, soft, and exquisitely balanced are the words we repeated as we plumbed the Aglianico's character. The juice is truly a charmer, starting with its ruby-red hue and continuing with its appealing, fresh nose of Bing cherries, raspberries, and crabapples. Add lovely and subtle hints of black pepper, cloves, leather, and smoke to the appealing fruit flavors -- as well as a supple, rounded notes of lilac and pepper on the gently lingering finish -- and you've found a genuinely food-worthy wine with more pairing possibilities than can be imagined. It'll drink well, and distinctively, for another three or four years. (Need more info? The '06 Aglianico was awarded a bronze medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition earlier this year.)
Is there a negative side to this beauty? Sadly, yes: The manager of the Julian tasting room told us that the head folks at Witch Creek make sure that their wine is available only at their tasting sites (Julian and Carlsbad), or by phone or online order. On the other hand, its modest price tag -- $20 -- more than compensates for its relative inaccessibility.
After finishing this entry, I'm more than ready to make toddies a thing of the past.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Albarino: a classy white that deserves much more love
Stop me if you've heard me say this before, but here's my advice whenever you've got a chance to try a varietal or a region you've never sampled before: Take the bull by the horns -- or, rather, the glass by the stem -- and go for the gusto.
(Besides, I'd mentioned in my first blog that I'd focus on varietals, regions, and labels that routinely miss the attention of better-known wine mavens and publications. With that in mind, I went ahead and wrote about -- what else? -- California Cabs. Talk about my going back on my own word!)
Anyway, to stick with my original concept of writing about under-the-radar wines, I'll get going with one of my all-time favorite white varietals: Albarino. A white varietal that's native to both the Rias Biaxas region of northwest Spain and the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, it first came to our attention in early 2006 when The Better Half and I visited SecondEmpire (http://www.second-empire.com/) during a trip to Raleigh, N.C. Since we both were in an adventurous mood while we checked out SecondEmpire's wine menu, we both agreed upon a Spanish white with an exotic-sounding name and a mouth-watering description of its flavors. And while the '04 Albarino we'd had with our meal (I can't remember the wine's producer or label, to my regret) was still recovering from the final stages of bottle shock, its vibrant, distinctive scents and flavors of citrus, peach, passion fruit, and lime with a hint of "wet rocks" minerality really rang my bells. Since then, I've been on a mission to locate this crisp, intensely lovely and distinctive Spanish white.
Unfortunately, the chances of your local grocery store's stocking Albarino are about as good as being able to purchase the Brooklyn Bridge for a five-spot. That's why it's worth it to drive to your local top-flight wine shop and make a beeline to the "Spanish Whites" section. (With gas hovering around $3.50 a gallon, you might even want to ask a fellow wine fan to carpool with you, just in case you live a goodly distance from your nearest wine shop.) One positive trend of Albarinos is their increasing affordability: When TBH and I had our first sip of the varietal almost three years ago, it was often priced slightly north of $20. In October '08, however, a typical bottle of this shellfish-friendly white will now set you back $15 or a bit less. If that isn't good wine news, what is?
Here's one of my favorite Albarinos. If your local wine shop doesn't have it in stock, ask the buyer to see if he or she would consider including it as a regular item. (It's a worthy point. Truth be told, how many wine shops are overstocked on Albarino?) If the answer's no, be ready to special-order a case. Of course, you'll need to pay ahead of time, but you'll probably get the standard 10 percent discount on a case purchase.
LICIA 2005-06 ALBARINO/RIAS BIAXAS: ABOUT $14
100% Albarino. Long recognized as Spain’s major white grape, Albarino hails from Rias Biaxas, a region in the northwestern portion of the country. The varietal itself is one of the world’s most exotic and memorable, thanks to its complex aromas and flavors -– lemon, lime, apricot, peach, white pepper, ginger, and anise -– mixed with its intense acidity, its surprisingly full body, and distinctive “spritziness.” Not only does the Licia Albarino offer everything that makes this varietal so distinctive, it pulls everything together with elegance and balance. Since world-class Albarinos under $20 are about as common as Halley’s Comet, this bright (and totally affordable) star in the wine universe is one to relish. It’s an understatement to say it’s a natural with paella, mahi-mahi, shellfish, or poultry.
~ Cheers!
(Besides, I'd mentioned in my first blog that I'd focus on varietals, regions, and labels that routinely miss the attention of better-known wine mavens and publications. With that in mind, I went ahead and wrote about -- what else? -- California Cabs. Talk about my going back on my own word!)
Anyway, to stick with my original concept of writing about under-the-radar wines, I'll get going with one of my all-time favorite white varietals: Albarino. A white varietal that's native to both the Rias Biaxas region of northwest Spain and the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, it first came to our attention in early 2006 when The Better Half and I visited SecondEmpire (http://www.second-empire.com/) during a trip to Raleigh, N.C. Since we both were in an adventurous mood while we checked out SecondEmpire's wine menu, we both agreed upon a Spanish white with an exotic-sounding name and a mouth-watering description of its flavors. And while the '04 Albarino we'd had with our meal (I can't remember the wine's producer or label, to my regret) was still recovering from the final stages of bottle shock, its vibrant, distinctive scents and flavors of citrus, peach, passion fruit, and lime with a hint of "wet rocks" minerality really rang my bells. Since then, I've been on a mission to locate this crisp, intensely lovely and distinctive Spanish white.
Unfortunately, the chances of your local grocery store's stocking Albarino are about as good as being able to purchase the Brooklyn Bridge for a five-spot. That's why it's worth it to drive to your local top-flight wine shop and make a beeline to the "Spanish Whites" section. (With gas hovering around $3.50 a gallon, you might even want to ask a fellow wine fan to carpool with you, just in case you live a goodly distance from your nearest wine shop.) One positive trend of Albarinos is their increasing affordability: When TBH and I had our first sip of the varietal almost three years ago, it was often priced slightly north of $20. In October '08, however, a typical bottle of this shellfish-friendly white will now set you back $15 or a bit less. If that isn't good wine news, what is?
Here's one of my favorite Albarinos. If your local wine shop doesn't have it in stock, ask the buyer to see if he or she would consider including it as a regular item. (It's a worthy point. Truth be told, how many wine shops are overstocked on Albarino?) If the answer's no, be ready to special-order a case. Of course, you'll need to pay ahead of time, but you'll probably get the standard 10 percent discount on a case purchase.
LICIA 2005-06 ALBARINO/RIAS BIAXAS: ABOUT $14
100% Albarino. Long recognized as Spain’s major white grape, Albarino hails from Rias Biaxas, a region in the northwestern portion of the country. The varietal itself is one of the world’s most exotic and memorable, thanks to its complex aromas and flavors -– lemon, lime, apricot, peach, white pepper, ginger, and anise -– mixed with its intense acidity, its surprisingly full body, and distinctive “spritziness.” Not only does the Licia Albarino offer everything that makes this varietal so distinctive, it pulls everything together with elegance and balance. Since world-class Albarinos under $20 are about as common as Halley’s Comet, this bright (and totally affordable) star in the wine universe is one to relish. It’s an understatement to say it’s a natural with paella, mahi-mahi, shellfish, or poultry.
~ Cheers!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Is a "big name" any guarantee of quality? Hardly
And to think we'd waited six years for this ...
Shortly before Christmas '02, The Better Half and I attended a holiday party, hosted by the founders of a local wine club. (When I use the phrase wine club, I don't mean the sort that a person joins to have two wines sent to his or her home each month. This club, truth be told, is merely a gathering of folks who, despite their claims of being on the lookout for fine wine, are happiest guzzling down grade-Z plonk guaranteed to burn throats and provide two-day hangovers.)
Anyway, one time-honored tradition of the group's annual holiday shindig was the gift exchange. Lucky recipients found themselves with a decent bottle, whereas less-fortunate ones ended up with stuff that'd make Robert Parker award Beringer White Zinfandel with a score of 95. When we took our wine out of the bag -- a '99 Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon -- fellow partiers murmured "ooh" and "ahh."
Last month, we learned, that bottle most definitely did not deserve their adoration.
One of the results of the economy's free fall is our dining creatively. That's also a result of TBH's being laid off in January 2006 from his terrific executive position, as was everyone else from his department, from the massive insurance company for which he toiled for nearly 16 years. Right now, he's earning about a third of his former salary as a manager of Internet car sales. What this means, kind reader, is that a birthday dinner in 2008 means heading out to Mimi's Cafe with a bottle primed for a $1 corkage. (Before his layoff, our b-day celebrations involved going to pretty great spots in downtown Long Beach -- The Madison, Sir Winston's, L'Opera, or The Sky Room -- all places where it's easy to part with $250 for a pre-dinner drink, an appetizer, a bottle of wine, two entrees, an after-dinner cordial, and a dessert.)
Anyway, my birthday dinner was our chance to sample that '99 Rodney Strong. "I'll bet it's become really rich and elegant by now," TBH murmured, pulling it from our wine rack shortly before we left for Mimi's.
Rich and elegant, unfortunately, were hardly fitting discriptors for this dull, generic juice.
Shortly before Christmas '02, The Better Half and I attended a holiday party, hosted by the founders of a local wine club. (When I use the phrase wine club, I don't mean the sort that a person joins to have two wines sent to his or her home each month. This club, truth be told, is merely a gathering of folks who, despite their claims of being on the lookout for fine wine, are happiest guzzling down grade-Z plonk guaranteed to burn throats and provide two-day hangovers.)
Anyway, one time-honored tradition of the group's annual holiday shindig was the gift exchange. Lucky recipients found themselves with a decent bottle, whereas less-fortunate ones ended up with stuff that'd make Robert Parker award Beringer White Zinfandel with a score of 95. When we took our wine out of the bag -- a '99 Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon -- fellow partiers murmured "ooh" and "ahh."
Last month, we learned, that bottle most definitely did not deserve their adoration.
One of the results of the economy's free fall is our dining creatively. That's also a result of TBH's being laid off in January 2006 from his terrific executive position, as was everyone else from his department, from the massive insurance company for which he toiled for nearly 16 years. Right now, he's earning about a third of his former salary as a manager of Internet car sales. What this means, kind reader, is that a birthday dinner in 2008 means heading out to Mimi's Cafe with a bottle primed for a $1 corkage. (Before his layoff, our b-day celebrations involved going to pretty great spots in downtown Long Beach -- The Madison, Sir Winston's, L'Opera, or The Sky Room -- all places where it's easy to part with $250 for a pre-dinner drink, an appetizer, a bottle of wine, two entrees, an after-dinner cordial, and a dessert.)
Anyway, my birthday dinner was our chance to sample that '99 Rodney Strong. "I'll bet it's become really rich and elegant by now," TBH murmured, pulling it from our wine rack shortly before we left for Mimi's.
Rich and elegant, unfortunately, were hardly fitting discriptors for this dull, generic juice.
RODNEY STRONG 1999 CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE/SONOMA COUNTY: ABOUT $20
For starters, the nose was as plain and one-dimensional as any I've ever tried in the last decade. Even after we'd swirled the wine in our glasses for five minutes, we were able to pick up only two aromas: plum and prune. In fact, one sip reminded me of a glass of Sunsweet Prune Juice I'd had a few years ago.
Roughly 25 minutes after that, once we were ready for our second glass -- we took our time with that first one with our French onion soup -- tiny notes of black pepper and smoke emerged in both the scent and the flavor. Regrettably, the plum/prune essences became flatter with extended aeration, making the wine itself taste like stale prunes. (Did I forget the wine's ultra-short finish?) To its credit, its full, soft mouthfeel and laid-back tannins cooperated politely with a blackened ribeye we'd had for our dinner entree, as well as a milk-chocolate mousse pie -- an on-the-house birthday treat from our Mimi's server.
With each sip of the Rodney Strong, we remembered the adoring comments made by our fellow party guests from that holiday party nearly six years ago. "Somehow, I just don't think they'd have gone on like that if they knew how dull the wine turned out to be," TBH commented. "Don't bet on it," I replied. "If they had the kind of taste I thought they had, they'd have given it a standing ovation." My bottom line: This bottle, which pushed $20 while it was available in wine shops a few years ago, is far and away one of the lowest-achieving wines we've had in more than a decade, making it the Spicoli of the vineyard. By comparison, the non-vintage Foxhorn "American" Cabernet Sauvignon -- y'know, the magnum that retails for four bones in grocery stores -- shows itself like a 96-point Wine Spectator classic.
Make no mistake, I'm delighted that we had a wonderful birthday dinner, filled with engaging conversation and good humor, given how low on funds we are. If only we could've brought a different, and undoubtedly more intruiging, wine ...
Cheers!
Greetings ... and meet my first under-the-radar wine winner
Over the last few decades, wine fans have been treated to the expertise and elegant prose of a variety of writers, most notably the editors and writers of Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator . Their years of experience in the field itself, as well as their deft way with the written word, marks them as respected professionals the world over.
With their accomplishments uppermost in mind, however, I'll share my own wine-related discoveries, adventures, and joys to readers in "Musings of a Wino," my individual look at a variety of wines, varietals, winemakers, and regions too often overlooked by high-profile -- and handsomely paid -- wine experts. If the troubled economy has dampened wine fans' hopes of locating quality juice, they shouldn't despair: The vast majority of wines I'll review in upcoming blogs are surprisingly easy on the wallet. (Yes, Virginia, it's true: You can enjoy a gorgeously balanced Bordeaux, a plush California Cabernet Sauvignon, or an elegantly nuanced red Burgundy for less than $20.)
Introductions aside, I'm eager to introduce you to one wine I've raved about since I first sampled it two years ago. The varietal is familiar, but the vineyards' location definitely isn't:
BEARTRAP CANYON "BEAR PAW" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001/ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST: ABOUT $19
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. You never know where the next mind-blowing wine will show up. We found this beauty at last year's Orange County Fair: a sumptuous, complex, memorable Cab that's everything the varietal should be. Bill and Elaine Mills, founders and owners of BearTrap Canyon Winery, discovered a sublime location to plant their six acres of vines: on a slope 4,300 feet above sea level roughly 10 miles from the tiny town of Acton in the foothills of the Angeles National Forest. That's where they've cultivated their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for more than 15 years. (The crush, wine making, and cellaring take place in Santa Barbara County, with the juice seeing 20 to 24 months of aging in French oak barrels.) Bill and Elaine's meticulous care in their winecraft is evident: Seductive, full aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and a hint of smoke entice, while the velvety mouthfeel and hauntingly spicy finish linger on the palate. Make no mistake: This is one of the best, most elegant California Cabs I've ever enjoyed -- and an astonishing bargain, too, at its suggested retail price of $19. (Note: At this writing, Bear Paw is available at a few quality wine shops in northern Los Angeles County. If making that trek is out of the question, contact the folks at BearTrap at http://www.beartrapcanyon.com/ to place an order.)
With their accomplishments uppermost in mind, however, I'll share my own wine-related discoveries, adventures, and joys to readers in "Musings of a Wino," my individual look at a variety of wines, varietals, winemakers, and regions too often overlooked by high-profile -- and handsomely paid -- wine experts. If the troubled economy has dampened wine fans' hopes of locating quality juice, they shouldn't despair: The vast majority of wines I'll review in upcoming blogs are surprisingly easy on the wallet. (Yes, Virginia, it's true: You can enjoy a gorgeously balanced Bordeaux, a plush California Cabernet Sauvignon, or an elegantly nuanced red Burgundy for less than $20.)
Introductions aside, I'm eager to introduce you to one wine I've raved about since I first sampled it two years ago. The varietal is familiar, but the vineyards' location definitely isn't:
BEARTRAP CANYON "BEAR PAW" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001/ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST: ABOUT $19
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. You never know where the next mind-blowing wine will show up. We found this beauty at last year's Orange County Fair: a sumptuous, complex, memorable Cab that's everything the varietal should be. Bill and Elaine Mills, founders and owners of BearTrap Canyon Winery, discovered a sublime location to plant their six acres of vines: on a slope 4,300 feet above sea level roughly 10 miles from the tiny town of Acton in the foothills of the Angeles National Forest. That's where they've cultivated their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for more than 15 years. (The crush, wine making, and cellaring take place in Santa Barbara County, with the juice seeing 20 to 24 months of aging in French oak barrels.) Bill and Elaine's meticulous care in their winecraft is evident: Seductive, full aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and a hint of smoke entice, while the velvety mouthfeel and hauntingly spicy finish linger on the palate. Make no mistake: This is one of the best, most elegant California Cabs I've ever enjoyed -- and an astonishing bargain, too, at its suggested retail price of $19. (Note: At this writing, Bear Paw is available at a few quality wine shops in northern Los Angeles County. If making that trek is out of the question, contact the folks at BearTrap at http://www.beartrapcanyon.com/ to place an order.)
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