Thursday, October 9, 2008

Greetings ... and meet my first under-the-radar wine winner

Over the last few decades, wine fans have been treated to the expertise and elegant prose of a variety of writers, most notably the editors and writers of Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator . Their years of experience in the field itself, as well as their deft way with the written word, marks them as respected professionals the world over.

With their accomplishments uppermost in mind, however, I'll share my own wine-related discoveries, adventures, and joys to readers in "Musings of a Wino," my individual look at a variety of wines, varietals, winemakers, and regions too often overlooked by high-profile -- and handsomely paid -- wine experts. If the troubled economy has dampened wine fans' hopes of locating quality juice, they shouldn't despair: The vast majority of wines I'll review in upcoming blogs are surprisingly easy on the wallet. (Yes, Virginia, it's true: You can enjoy a gorgeously balanced Bordeaux, a plush California Cabernet Sauvignon, or an elegantly nuanced red Burgundy for less than $20.)

Introductions aside, I'm eager to introduce you to one wine I've raved about since I first sampled it two years ago. The varietal is familiar, but the vineyards' location definitely isn't:

BEARTRAP CANYON "BEAR PAW" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001/ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST: ABOUT $19

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. You never know where the next mind-blowing wine will show up. We found this beauty at last year's Orange County Fair: a sumptuous, complex, memorable Cab that's everything the varietal should be. Bill and Elaine Mills, founders and owners of BearTrap Canyon Winery, discovered a sublime location to plant their six acres of vines: on a slope 4,300 feet above sea level roughly 10 miles from the tiny town of Acton in the foothills of the Angeles National Forest. That's where they've cultivated their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for more than 15 years. (The crush, wine making, and cellaring take place in Santa Barbara County, with the juice seeing 20 to 24 months of aging in French oak barrels.) Bill and Elaine's meticulous care in their winecraft is evident: Seductive, full aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and a hint of smoke entice, while the velvety mouthfeel and hauntingly spicy finish linger on the palate. Make no mistake: This is one of the best, most elegant California Cabs I've ever enjoyed -- and an astonishing bargain, too, at its suggested retail price of $19. (Note: At this writing, Bear Paw is available at a few quality wine shops in northern Los Angeles County. If making that trek is out of the question, contact the folks at BearTrap at
http://www.beartrapcanyon.com/ to place an order.)

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