Meet Agiorgitiko: a cheerful Greek with great "match appeal"

Suppose you’re in the mood for a red, and Indian summer’s still in full tilt. Big boys such as Syrah, Malbec, or Cabernet Sauvignon won’t do, nor will bantamweights Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, especially if that’s nearly all you’ve sipped the last six months. What to pour?

Once again, I’ll repeat my oenological mantra: Think outside the bottle. Few varietals would fit the bill better than Agiorgitiko, a nervy red grape with a lively streak of acidity. It’s a native of the Peloponnese, a region in southern Greece south of the Gulf of Corinth that’s nurtured by the plentiful sun and warmth that defines the Mediterranean climate.

The region’s soil, on the other hand, is barren and dry as any on the planet – an unlikely setting to cultivate vineyards. However, while the Agiorgitiko grape features the same lightness and fruitiness of its ever-popular sibling Pinot Noir, it requires none of its care. “(Pinot) is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early,” says the Miles Raymond character in Sideways, adding that it “needs constant care and attention … and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.” On the contrary, Agiorgitiko develops its vibrant freshness in conditions – desolate soil and intense, searing sun – that’d destroy the delicate likes of Pinot Noir.

What does Agiorgitiko offer? Plenty. Its classic trademarks include exuberant, fresh-from-the-vine scents and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, an array of zesty spices, a light body, and tangy acidity. It’s a young soul, this varietal, one with an irrepressibly cheerful and spunky demeanor. Thanks to its self-reliant nature, one of its most appealing features is its appealing price tag, usually around the $10 neighborhood. Even though it’s a staple on wine lists of Greek restaurants coast to coast, Agiorgitiko is at home with any fare usually paired with Pinot Noir and other light reds. Here’s one that’s one of our favorites:

ACHAIA CLAUSS DRY RED WINE “DANIELIS” NV/PATRAS: ABOUT $12

100% Agiorgitiko. In 1854, native Bavarian Gustav Clauss visited Patras, a region in northwestern Peloponnese, and liked it so much he chose to settle there. The first wines he produced there were Mavrodaphne – a sweet red grape transplanted from the Ionian Islands – and Muscat of Patras. In 1861, seven years after putting down roots in his new land and creating his wines, Gustav built the Achaia Clauss winery. More than 150 years later, it’s one of Greece’s best-known wineries, with a portfolio that features 32 different wines and four spirits than run the gamut from young, refreshing quaffers to boutique-style wines with power and depth. Gustav, we think, would truly enjoy sipping a glass of his “Danielis,” a soft, spunky red that shows the charm of the Agiorgitiko grape. Spunky red fruit, ginger, and a zippy touch of pepper dance all over the palate. Versatility is its calling card, as welcome at a holiday dinner as on a picnic.