Monday, December 29, 2008

Whenever you're craving winter-ready comfort fare, be sure to have this on hand

Whether "winter weather" means highs in the 30s (as it does for my brother, a resident of Denver since June) or in the 60s (as it does for me in Placentia, a town eight miles north of Disneyland), it's likely that many of us have a big-time hankering for comfort fare at this time of the year. If you're craving the likes of meat loaf, pot roast, stew, chili, chicken and dumplings, pork chops, cheesy casseroles, mac 'n' cheese, or mashed potatoes these days, take heart: There's a wide array of hearty, savory, and affordable wines that pair effortlessly with your homespun culinary favorites. Here's one that my husband and I especially enjoy:

VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET '06 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/RHONE: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

It's no secret: I love unpretentious reds with plenty of easy-going, peppery rusticity -- in other words, anything with that appealing Cotes du Rhone vibe. Similar to the recently reviewed Cabrini Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza in its warmth and spice is this approachable Cab. Even though this red's grapes are sourced from Saint-Jean-d'Ardieres, a village that straddles northern and southern Rhone, its casual and spunky soul are undeniably southern. Its lovely tawny-garnet color and intense nose of ripe currants, plums, grilled meat, and peppercorns entice, while flavors of dry blackberries and currants join essences of cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and smoke. Firm but nicely integrated tannins add structure to the wine's supple, medium-sized body, as well as a mellow, peppery finish that lingers for minutes. And even though the Romanet Cab would be a slam dunk with any time-honored comfort-food entree, don't even think of wasting a wine of this caliber on a bowl of SpaghettiO's.

A Cotes du Rhone from Mendoza? That's right

The last time I rambled on about Southern California's weather, it was about six weeks ago in mid-November. That was when triple-digit heat and bone-dry gusts teamed up to produce some scary firestorms throughout the region. Since then, the weather here has pulled a U-turn for the holidays, with the mecury barely touching 55 during the day and in the low 30s at night. But no matter whether you regard this weather as invigorating (I do) or nasty (the view of about 70 percent of locals), you're probably going to crave a hearty, earthy, rustic red with your winter dinners. Here's one that'll pair wonderfully with your comfort-food favorites and warm your innards:

CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12

I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Opulence meets elegance: a lovely, full-bodied South African Chardonnay

As many wine fans know well, the move away from aggressive "oaking" in New World regions is well underway -- and not a moment too soon. Over the last few decades, varietals that had the potential to benefit with ageing in oak barrels had become unbalanced, heavy-handed brutes that conflict with the very entrees they were intended to complement. Is it any wonder why I agree with the European winemaking credo of leaving Mother Nature alone while she creates wine?

As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).

BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.