A Cotes du Rhone from Mendoza? That's right

The last time I rambled on about Southern California's weather, it was about six weeks ago in mid-November. That was when triple-digit heat and bone-dry gusts teamed up to produce some scary firestorms throughout the region. Since then, the weather here has pulled a U-turn for the holidays, with the mecury barely touching 55 during the day and in the low 30s at night. But no matter whether you regard this weather as invigorating (I do) or nasty (the view of about 70 percent of locals), you're probably going to crave a hearty, earthy, rustic red with your winter dinners. Here's one that'll pair wonderfully with your comfort-food favorites and warm your innards:

CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12

I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.