Opulence meets elegance: a lovely, full-bodied South African Chardonnay

As many wine fans know well, the move away from aggressive "oaking" in New World regions is well underway -- and not a moment too soon. Over the last few decades, varietals that had the potential to benefit with ageing in oak barrels had become unbalanced, heavy-handed brutes that conflict with the very entrees they were intended to complement. Is it any wonder why I agree with the European winemaking credo of leaving Mother Nature alone while she creates wine?

As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).

BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.