Friday, April 10, 2009

It's brunch season. What will you have on your table?

Easter weekend, for many folks, brings to mind the return of outdoor Sunday brunches with balmy temperatures and sunny days. Whatever Mother Nature has in store for your weekend repasts, PRP Wine has a selection that'll be ideal for your favorite brunch fare. Apparently some of our clients must be on the same page I am, because they've been asking me about some of my brunch-ready faves:

PIEROTH BLUE NV SEKT/DEMI SEC (SPARKLING RIESLING)/GERMANY: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

For some reason I still can't understand, many wine fans shy away from sparkling wine. (No, I'm not going to fall into the trap of referring to all sparklers as Champagnes, especially since I know that authentic Champagne comes from the region, by the same name, in northeastern France.) Some say that bubbly "tastes funny," citing its unusual dryness and acidity (classic characteristics of those from the Loire Valley), or its fullness and opulently rich mouthfeel (Cava, anyone?). At any rate, here's a bubbly that's very different from the zesty Bruts or the ultra-buttery Spanish sparklers most folks know: It's a Sekt, a variation on the sparkling theme that hails from Germany. In the case of the Pieroth Blue -- a bubbly made by the traditional method -- its Riesling grapes are sourced from family-owned vineyards throughout the German wine regions of Rheinhessen, Rheingau, and Nahe. As the first PRP selection I'd tasted, I fell instantly in love with its exuberant aromas of mandarin orange, tangerine, apricot, lime, and pear, with fresh notes of jasmine, candied ginger, and honey adding a grace note. Those same fruit essences carry over onto the bright, lively palate, with engaging acidity keeping things interesting all the way through the cheerful finish of sweet citrus and zippy baking spices. It's a delightful, light-on-its-feet variation of the Riesling grape, just the thing for citrus-based desserts -- think lemon meringue pie, Meyer lemon tarts, ice cream or creme brulee with a hint of citrus -- and it's a must-have for mimosas. Did I forget to add that it should be on the must-buy list for bridal couples planning their wedding receptions?

PUERTA DEL MEDITERRANEO '07 60% BIANCO MALVAR/40% AIREN/LA MANCHA (SPAIN): $16.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

As wine fans the world over know, Spain is emerging as one of the world's hottest wine-producing regions in terms of the ever-elusive combination of quality and value in vino. Although Spain's long renown for noble, age-worthy Rioja riservas -- Tempranillos that frequently see more than two years in oak before bottling -- it's getting much-deserved love for other varietals from other regions, including Albarinos from the northwesternmost region of Rias Biaxas, Monastrell from Jumilla, and this crisp, fresh white blend from La Mancha. (Yes, that's the same region referenced in the 1972 film Man of La Mancha.) It's a region with chilly winters, blisteringly hot summers, and plenty of minerality in the soil, all of which are expressed in our zesty, light-bodied mix of Bianco Malvar and Airen. Lively essences of fresh lemon and lime -- as well as notes of green pepper, dill, and oregano -- dance from the glass, as does its palate with mellow, smoothly integrated minerality. The finish of lemon, dill, and white pepper offers grace to the wine's elegant nature. Pair this ultra-flexible white with the likes of halibut, mahi mahi, swordfish, shark, chicken, or veggies, and you'll have happy guests at your table.

FURST FERENC '07 GRUNER VELTLINER/AUSTRIA: $18.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Folks at the Los Angeles PRP office have heard me rave endlessly about this selection for months, and I'm not about to stop enthusing about this sultry, exotic dry-white selection any time soon. Small wonder: It's far and away the best example of this varietal -- which dates to Roman times, but officially termed Gruner Veltliner by the mid-1800s -- under $35. Austria's terroir allows this classy varietal, with its medium-full body and gripping acidity, to flourish, thanks to its steeply terraced vineyards, its mineral-laden soil, and its cool nights. Although many Gruners take the mineral-and-acid trip much too far, ours is in perfect balance. Look for invigorating scents and flavors of freshly squeezed lime, grapefruit, in addition to compelling hints of snap pea, green pepper, white pepper, and star anise. Pair its well-integrated, zippy minerality with a spicy, back-palate finish, and you'll enjoy a gorgeous white I wish I were sipping now. It's a star with oysters, as well as artichokes and asparagus -- two notoriously tough-to-pair vegetables -- but the Ferenc is a perfect match for them both.

CECILE CHASSAGNE '06 COTES DU RHONE/$19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Since any self-respecting brunch will also offer heartier, more robust fare than souffles, waffles, or poached eggs -- think blackened salmon or roast beef, for example -- it's only fair to provide oenophiles a red that'll provide plenty of character without being so ponderous that it'll be out of place during a mid-day repast. That's where this medium-bodied Southern Rhone baby comes into play; its magenta hue accents any brunch table with elegance. But if you want to do more with this wonderful red blend that merely look at it, you'll be rewarded with its succulent scents and flavors of dusty-dry raspberry, cranberry, and blackberry, as well as its classic Southern-Rhone notes of freshly ground black pepper, smoke, and "barnyard" on the nose. Hints of sage, dill, and peppercorn linger on the palate, all the way through its streak of spicy acidity, its remarkable integration and structure, and its satisfying finish of herbs, smoke, and dry red and black berries. Needless to say, this classic and exuberant Cotes du Rhone is a red to order by the case, given its ready affinity with a wide variety of casual/comfort fare: burgers and any grilled meat, stews, meat or turkey loaf, pot pies, casseroles, or classic French country fare -- cassoulet or French onion soup come readily to mind. (Since the Cecile Chassagne Cotes du Rhone has been one of my PRP faves for a while, I was bowled over when my manager gave me a bottle of it as an Easter gift.)

Cheers!

~ Jan

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