Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Embrace spring with wines for every palate

When you're in the wine business, you're involved in a happy whirlwind of a wide range of activities -- events, promotions, and many others -- with sampling wines you've never tried before as the happiest, of course. And if being introduced to a bevy of distinguished selections isn't enough to make a soul smile, the gorgeous early spring weather that Southern California denizens have enjoyed the last few weeks is sure to do the trick. (Let's hope we're seeing the last of cold and gloomy springs!) With that, let's bring on on a variety of selections that'll appeal to a wide range of wine fans:

RAUENTHALER STEINMACHER 2006 SPATLESE RIESLING/RHEINGAU: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

When I poured this vivacious Spat, my better half was relaxing that afternoon, sprawled out on the couch in front of the tube and flipping channels before settling on "Herbie Fully Loaded," the 2005 Disney vehicle starring the oft-troubled Lindsay Lohan. (Don't worry, folks: He's not a devotee of pre-teen Disney fare.) That's when I realized that the phrase fully loaded describes this Rheingau beauty to a "T," starting with its lovely golden hue and ultra-aromatic noce of ripe pineapple, tangerine, and orange blossom. Add its astonishing mid-palate explosion of pineapple, lemon, tangerine, pear, and dried apricot -- with notes of candied ginger and cinnamon to keep things lively -- as well as that exotic texture of zippy acidity and luscious butter. Add a lengthy finish of butter and pineapple, and you've got a wine that'll be sure to impress your guests at your springtime feasts. May I suggest pairing this loaded Riesling with glazed ham topped with pineapple?

CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLOMINI 2007 SICILIA SANGIOVESE: $12.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Here's a classy, balanced Sangiovese (yep, folks, that's the grape that's featured in Chianti, Tuscany's oenological claim to fame) priced for fans of the varietal to enjoy every night, yet noteworthy enough for a dinner party or a gift. Despite the fact that this Sangiovese is grown in a region better known for the brooding Nero d'Avola, everything about this Piccolomini selection showcases the varietal at its brightest and food-worthy best: its subtle nose of Bing cherries, strawberries, lemon, and a hint of rose petals; its mouthwatering flavors of tangy red and black cherries, strawberries, green peppers, dill, oregano, and peppercorns that dance all over the palate; its fun squirt of lemony acidity, and its laid-back finish of green pepper and oregano. While it's a natural match with herb-loaded marinara sauce, don't be shy about introducing it to spicy blackened salmon (a favorite at home), chili, Tex-Mex dishes, or meat/turkey loaf.

DEEPWOOD CELLARS 2007 CHARDONNAY/MONTEREY: $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

As most wine fans already know, there's been a relatively serious backlash during the last few years among the public regarding heavily oaked, over-extracted Chards with finishes so heavy that they resemble gasoline. I tend to agree with the dissenters of this type. To paraphrase the title of that 005 Disney trifle I'd mentioned earlier, the Chardonnay grape is, by its own merits, so fully loaded that it doesn't need much -- if any -- interference from anyone else than Mother Nature. If any wine makes this case perfectly, it's this deceptively voluptuous offering from Monterey, which offers a seductive bouquet of succulent melon and butter; a rich mid-palate deluge of melon, lemon, and lime, with intriguing hints of eucalyptus, menthol, and dill; and a caressing finish of butter, lemon, and dill. This wine is an obvious pick to click with chicken, halibut, swordfish, or mahi mahi with lemon-dill sauce -- as well as souffles -- but its full body and dynamic flavors can make it a great match with a wide variety of fare.

CHATEAU BERTIN 2005 BORDEAUX/ST. EMILION: $30.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Stop me if you've hear or read this before, but 2005 has been hailed as one of the finest vintages for Bordeaux in years. (When I'd been the owner-manager of a wine shop in northeastern Orange County, I was briefly in the lucky position of having both an '00 and an '05 -- two vintage winners -- in stock at the same time. How good was that?) Anyway, to paraphrase one of my PRP collegues in describing that landmark '05 vintage, winemakers in Bordeaux were blessed with such good fortune from the oenological gods that year that they pretty much sat back and let the terroir take care of the grapes. As a result, everyone who has the savvy to pick up the '05 will experience the opulence and complexity this vintage offers in abundance. Truly, the Bertin is a don't miss, as well as one of my all-time favorites. It's a show-stopper, from its rich nose of dry currant, blackberry, earth, smoke, and understated floral notes; its flavors of dusty blackberry, currant, plum, cedar, earth, and gravel that unfold on the mid-palate; its gorgeous structure and balance; its mellow, faintly minerally acidity, and its lingering, smoky finish. While balanced Bordeaux such as this one are ideal with aged beef or rack of lamb, don't hesitate to pair this one with grilled steaks -- its smoky flavors and finish are a natural with anything with a bit of char -- or with your favorite stews, cassoulet, or French onion soup.

DEEPWOOD CELLARS NV BLACK MUSCAT/LODI: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)

Still wondering what to serve with that can't-resist creme brulee, dessert souffle, Meyer lemon tart, or favorite fruit dessert you've prepared so carefully for your spring desserts? Ponder no more: This sweetie from Lodi -- the hot-weather region known best as a top source of high-octane Zinfandels -- befriends all of those postprandial treats, and more. Not only is it pretty to look at (how can you turn away from its enchanting ruby color?), it's a charmer to enjoy, with its nose of ultra-ripe raspberries and boysenberries, its flavors of massively ripe red berries that explode all over the middle palate, and its soft, gentle finish that subtly accents your chosen dessert. Now that I think of it, this Black Muscat would also be ideal with French vanilla ice cream, strudel, white chocolate ... and a host of other opulent goodies.

Cheers!

~ Jan

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