As the holiday season approaches each year, many of us shift into serious worry mode about finding gifts for the favorite folks in our lives. Gift giving is rarely a snap, and it's a nearly impossible feat to pull off when those friends or family members are wine aficionadoes with hundreds of Parker-acclaimed selections -- and, possibly, a bottle of '61 Petrus -- stashed away in his or her EuroCave.
Likewise, when you're a guest at a holiday dinner party, you obviously want to avoid being the unfortunate soul arriving with a bottle of Woodbridge for your host, while everyone else has a small-production boutique offering that elicits "ooh"s and "ahh"s from the group.
Believe it or not, you can handle both scenarios with aplomb without busting your holiday budget. Here's a short list of an array of wines to entice oenophiles with all palates:
NV FERDINAND PIEROTH "PIEROTH GOLD" SEKT DEMI-SEC/GERMANY: $23.49 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
One aspect of the numerous wine events I've participated in throughout this year never fails to break my heart: hearing many supposedly broad-minded wine fans tell me that they refuse to taste barely more than a drop of vino with even the faintest amount of sweetness ... not even port. That's too bad for them, because they miss out on one of the most enjoyable parts of wine tasting: enjoying the exquisite match of sweeter wines with salty fare, such as Port with Stilton, one of the saltiest cheeses on the planet. The same holds true for "Pieroth Gold," a Riesling/Trebbiano blend made party hearty with bubbles and 24-karat gold flakes. As with its twin "Edition Pieroth," this sparkler bursts with exuberant, bright scents and flavors of green apple, apricot, honeydew, and lemon; its clear, well-integrated mix of acidity and minerality make it a great match with creamier cheeses such as Brie and Gouda, in addition to crab dip, shrimp cocktails, and a wide array of light, fruity desserts. Make sure to have a case on hand at your New Year's Eve shindig to ring in 2010!
2008 FERDINAND PIEROTH KREUZNACHER ROSENBERG SPATLESE MULLER-THURGAU/NAHE (GERMANY): $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Although you'll likely be munching on turkey sandwiches or sipping turkey noodle soup for a while after Thanksgiving, you're probably thinking gobbler as a tasty entree for your holiday-season suppers. So which wine, you're no doubt asking, loves the satisfying saltiness of turkey? Hearkening back to my comments about the aforementioned "Pieroth Gold," you'll find that wines with a measure of light, refreshing sweetness are a natch with light, saltier (and spicier) fare, including Thai, Chinese, and Vietnamese cuisine. Enter your holiday bird in that category; it's ideal with this classic Muller-Thurgau, with its appealingly fresh nose and flavors of green apple, pear, and green grapes and notes of ginger and cinnamon on the middle palate and lingering finish. But don't stop with the holiday season for this yummy Spatlese: Introduce it to orange chicken, Waldorf salad, and a host of other sweet-and-salty dishes.
2005 GOLDEN GRAPE ESTATE PINOT NOIR/OREGON: $32.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
To me, a wine grape should be allowed to show its natural characteristics, not manipulated into having a fuller body, a darker hue, or more alcohol than it would have on its own accord. Rather unfortunately, several domestic winemakers -- no, I refuse to identify the offenders -- seem to have no qualms about having their Pinot grapes harvested late, not to mention extracted, macerated, and oaked with the heaviest of hands. (In other words, why do these folks insist upon turning Pinot Noir into Syrah?) The benefits of letting a varietal be itself, on the other hand, are many, with wine of purity, clarity, and complexity at the top of the list. Case in point: the '05 Golden Grape Estate Pinot Noir. Featuring classic Burgundian delicacy and earthiness, this beauty features a dainty pale garnet hue with a faint touch of tawniness. Scents of dry, tart red cherry and strawberry, mushroom, cedar, and freshly tilled earth flow from the glass, leading to clear, compelling mid-palate flavors of tangy red cherry and strawberry, in addition to notes of eucalyptus, peppercorn, and sage. Pinot Noir's classically gentle acidity is showcased throughout the wine's ethereal mouthfeel, with its lingering, woodsy finish providing a haunting grace note. Pair it with a savory salmon filet, roast chicken, or even rare prime rib, and you'll be in bliss. (During a tasting early this summer, my husband sampled a glass of this exquisite Oregonian, and deemed it "as close to perfect a wine" as he's ever tasted.) A case of this gorgeous wine -- a steal, at $32.99 a bottle for a premium Oregon Pinot Noir -- is a must this year for the serious wine fan in your life!
2008 CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLIMINI AGLIANICO IGT/SICILY: $14.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
What to serve with a rich, satisfying holiday meal featuring a standing rib roast or classic roast beef, made piquant with a dusting of cracked black pepper? Offer a glass of this classy Sicilian to your dinner guests: a noble varietal known as the Aglianico grape. (Fret not if the name doesn't ring a bell; more than 1,200 wine grape varietals are grown in Italy.) Featuring lovely, supple aromas and flavors of plum, black cherry, cassis, and capers -- with accents of tarragon, oregano, freshly tilled earth, and ash (talk about the effects of terroir) -- and exiting with an ultra-long, rich back-palate finish teeming with herbs and capers -- the Piccolomini Aglianco is a natural for your holiday table. It's just as tasty with an array of comfort fare, including but not exclusively pot roast, meat loaf, heartier stews and soups, cassoulet, burgers, anything on the grill, pasta with meaty red sauces, or pizza. It'd be hard to imagine that a case of this affordable Italian classic would hold a wine fan throughout the next month or so!
2006 OLIGITUM CRIANZA (34% CABERNET SAUVIGNON/33% TEMPRANILLO/33% MERLOT)/NAVARRA: $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
While little ones may have visions of sugar plums dancing in their heads this season, many oenophiles no doubt have fantasies of deeply hued, chewy, brooding reds filling their heads. If one of your friends is a wine fan who dreams of a red Christmas or Hannukkah, make that friend happy with a few bottles (or a case) of this lusty Spanish beauty. With its gorgeous inky-garnet color, as well as essences of ultra-ripe blackberry and currant, sage, tarragon, cedar, green pepper, nopal, and char dominating the nose and palate, this Crianza offers a rich, velvety mouthfeel and a long back-palate finish that offers an intriguing array of herbs, spices, and smoke. Perfect with peppercorn steak or a peppery rib roast, this sexy and moody red -- think Ava Gardner of the world of wines -- is a Navarra treasure, currently available in very limited quantities.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Friday, April 10, 2009
It's brunch season. What will you have on your table?
Easter weekend, for many folks, brings to mind the return of outdoor Sunday brunches with balmy temperatures and sunny days. Whatever Mother Nature has in store for your weekend repasts, PRP Wine has a selection that'll be ideal for your favorite brunch fare. Apparently some of our clients must be on the same page I am, because they've been asking me about some of my brunch-ready faves:
PIEROTH BLUE NV SEKT/DEMI SEC (SPARKLING RIESLING)/GERMANY: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
For some reason I still can't understand, many wine fans shy away from sparkling wine. (No, I'm not going to fall into the trap of referring to all sparklers as Champagnes, especially since I know that authentic Champagne comes from the region, by the same name, in northeastern France.) Some say that bubbly "tastes funny," citing its unusual dryness and acidity (classic characteristics of those from the Loire Valley), or its fullness and opulently rich mouthfeel (Cava, anyone?). At any rate, here's a bubbly that's very different from the zesty Bruts or the ultra-buttery Spanish sparklers most folks know: It's a Sekt, a variation on the sparkling theme that hails from Germany. In the case of the Pieroth Blue -- a bubbly made by the traditional method -- its Riesling grapes are sourced from family-owned vineyards throughout the German wine regions of Rheinhessen, Rheingau, and Nahe. As the first PRP selection I'd tasted, I fell instantly in love with its exuberant aromas of mandarin orange, tangerine, apricot, lime, and pear, with fresh notes of jasmine, candied ginger, and honey adding a grace note. Those same fruit essences carry over onto the bright, lively palate, with engaging acidity keeping things interesting all the way through the cheerful finish of sweet citrus and zippy baking spices. It's a delightful, light-on-its-feet variation of the Riesling grape, just the thing for citrus-based desserts -- think lemon meringue pie, Meyer lemon tarts, ice cream or creme brulee with a hint of citrus -- and it's a must-have for mimosas. Did I forget to add that it should be on the must-buy list for bridal couples planning their wedding receptions?
PUERTA DEL MEDITERRANEO '07 60% BIANCO MALVAR/40% AIREN/LA MANCHA (SPAIN): $16.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
As wine fans the world over know, Spain is emerging as one of the world's hottest wine-producing regions in terms of the ever-elusive combination of quality and value in vino. Although Spain's long renown for noble, age-worthy Rioja riservas -- Tempranillos that frequently see more than two years in oak before bottling -- it's getting much-deserved love for other varietals from other regions, including Albarinos from the northwesternmost region of Rias Biaxas, Monastrell from Jumilla, and this crisp, fresh white blend from La Mancha. (Yes, that's the same region referenced in the 1972 film Man of La Mancha.) It's a region with chilly winters, blisteringly hot summers, and plenty of minerality in the soil, all of which are expressed in our zesty, light-bodied mix of Bianco Malvar and Airen. Lively essences of fresh lemon and lime -- as well as notes of green pepper, dill, and oregano -- dance from the glass, as does its palate with mellow, smoothly integrated minerality. The finish of lemon, dill, and white pepper offers grace to the wine's elegant nature. Pair this ultra-flexible white with the likes of halibut, mahi mahi, swordfish, shark, chicken, or veggies, and you'll have happy guests at your table.
FURST FERENC '07 GRUNER VELTLINER/AUSTRIA: $18.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Folks at the Los Angeles PRP office have heard me rave endlessly about this selection for months, and I'm not about to stop enthusing about this sultry, exotic dry-white selection any time soon. Small wonder: It's far and away the best example of this varietal -- which dates to Roman times, but officially termed Gruner Veltliner by the mid-1800s -- under $35. Austria's terroir allows this classy varietal, with its medium-full body and gripping acidity, to flourish, thanks to its steeply terraced vineyards, its mineral-laden soil, and its cool nights. Although many Gruners take the mineral-and-acid trip much too far, ours is in perfect balance. Look for invigorating scents and flavors of freshly squeezed lime, grapefruit, in addition to compelling hints of snap pea, green pepper, white pepper, and star anise. Pair its well-integrated, zippy minerality with a spicy, back-palate finish, and you'll enjoy a gorgeous white I wish I were sipping now. It's a star with oysters, as well as artichokes and asparagus -- two notoriously tough-to-pair vegetables -- but the Ferenc is a perfect match for them both.
CECILE CHASSAGNE '06 COTES DU RHONE/$19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Since any self-respecting brunch will also offer heartier, more robust fare than souffles, waffles, or poached eggs -- think blackened salmon or roast beef, for example -- it's only fair to provide oenophiles a red that'll provide plenty of character without being so ponderous that it'll be out of place during a mid-day repast. That's where this medium-bodied Southern Rhone baby comes into play; its magenta hue accents any brunch table with elegance. But if you want to do more with this wonderful red blend that merely look at it, you'll be rewarded with its succulent scents and flavors of dusty-dry raspberry, cranberry, and blackberry, as well as its classic Southern-Rhone notes of freshly ground black pepper, smoke, and "barnyard" on the nose. Hints of sage, dill, and peppercorn linger on the palate, all the way through its streak of spicy acidity, its remarkable integration and structure, and its satisfying finish of herbs, smoke, and dry red and black berries. Needless to say, this classic and exuberant Cotes du Rhone is a red to order by the case, given its ready affinity with a wide variety of casual/comfort fare: burgers and any grilled meat, stews, meat or turkey loaf, pot pies, casseroles, or classic French country fare -- cassoulet or French onion soup come readily to mind. (Since the Cecile Chassagne Cotes du Rhone has been one of my PRP faves for a while, I was bowled over when my manager gave me a bottle of it as an Easter gift.)
Cheers!
~ Jan
PIEROTH BLUE NV SEKT/DEMI SEC (SPARKLING RIESLING)/GERMANY: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
For some reason I still can't understand, many wine fans shy away from sparkling wine. (No, I'm not going to fall into the trap of referring to all sparklers as Champagnes, especially since I know that authentic Champagne comes from the region, by the same name, in northeastern France.) Some say that bubbly "tastes funny," citing its unusual dryness and acidity (classic characteristics of those from the Loire Valley), or its fullness and opulently rich mouthfeel (Cava, anyone?). At any rate, here's a bubbly that's very different from the zesty Bruts or the ultra-buttery Spanish sparklers most folks know: It's a Sekt, a variation on the sparkling theme that hails from Germany. In the case of the Pieroth Blue -- a bubbly made by the traditional method -- its Riesling grapes are sourced from family-owned vineyards throughout the German wine regions of Rheinhessen, Rheingau, and Nahe. As the first PRP selection I'd tasted, I fell instantly in love with its exuberant aromas of mandarin orange, tangerine, apricot, lime, and pear, with fresh notes of jasmine, candied ginger, and honey adding a grace note. Those same fruit essences carry over onto the bright, lively palate, with engaging acidity keeping things interesting all the way through the cheerful finish of sweet citrus and zippy baking spices. It's a delightful, light-on-its-feet variation of the Riesling grape, just the thing for citrus-based desserts -- think lemon meringue pie, Meyer lemon tarts, ice cream or creme brulee with a hint of citrus -- and it's a must-have for mimosas. Did I forget to add that it should be on the must-buy list for bridal couples planning their wedding receptions?
PUERTA DEL MEDITERRANEO '07 60% BIANCO MALVAR/40% AIREN/LA MANCHA (SPAIN): $16.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
As wine fans the world over know, Spain is emerging as one of the world's hottest wine-producing regions in terms of the ever-elusive combination of quality and value in vino. Although Spain's long renown for noble, age-worthy Rioja riservas -- Tempranillos that frequently see more than two years in oak before bottling -- it's getting much-deserved love for other varietals from other regions, including Albarinos from the northwesternmost region of Rias Biaxas, Monastrell from Jumilla, and this crisp, fresh white blend from La Mancha. (Yes, that's the same region referenced in the 1972 film Man of La Mancha.) It's a region with chilly winters, blisteringly hot summers, and plenty of minerality in the soil, all of which are expressed in our zesty, light-bodied mix of Bianco Malvar and Airen. Lively essences of fresh lemon and lime -- as well as notes of green pepper, dill, and oregano -- dance from the glass, as does its palate with mellow, smoothly integrated minerality. The finish of lemon, dill, and white pepper offers grace to the wine's elegant nature. Pair this ultra-flexible white with the likes of halibut, mahi mahi, swordfish, shark, chicken, or veggies, and you'll have happy guests at your table.
FURST FERENC '07 GRUNER VELTLINER/AUSTRIA: $18.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Folks at the Los Angeles PRP office have heard me rave endlessly about this selection for months, and I'm not about to stop enthusing about this sultry, exotic dry-white selection any time soon. Small wonder: It's far and away the best example of this varietal -- which dates to Roman times, but officially termed Gruner Veltliner by the mid-1800s -- under $35. Austria's terroir allows this classy varietal, with its medium-full body and gripping acidity, to flourish, thanks to its steeply terraced vineyards, its mineral-laden soil, and its cool nights. Although many Gruners take the mineral-and-acid trip much too far, ours is in perfect balance. Look for invigorating scents and flavors of freshly squeezed lime, grapefruit, in addition to compelling hints of snap pea, green pepper, white pepper, and star anise. Pair its well-integrated, zippy minerality with a spicy, back-palate finish, and you'll enjoy a gorgeous white I wish I were sipping now. It's a star with oysters, as well as artichokes and asparagus -- two notoriously tough-to-pair vegetables -- but the Ferenc is a perfect match for them both.
CECILE CHASSAGNE '06 COTES DU RHONE/$19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Since any self-respecting brunch will also offer heartier, more robust fare than souffles, waffles, or poached eggs -- think blackened salmon or roast beef, for example -- it's only fair to provide oenophiles a red that'll provide plenty of character without being so ponderous that it'll be out of place during a mid-day repast. That's where this medium-bodied Southern Rhone baby comes into play; its magenta hue accents any brunch table with elegance. But if you want to do more with this wonderful red blend that merely look at it, you'll be rewarded with its succulent scents and flavors of dusty-dry raspberry, cranberry, and blackberry, as well as its classic Southern-Rhone notes of freshly ground black pepper, smoke, and "barnyard" on the nose. Hints of sage, dill, and peppercorn linger on the palate, all the way through its streak of spicy acidity, its remarkable integration and structure, and its satisfying finish of herbs, smoke, and dry red and black berries. Needless to say, this classic and exuberant Cotes du Rhone is a red to order by the case, given its ready affinity with a wide variety of casual/comfort fare: burgers and any grilled meat, stews, meat or turkey loaf, pot pies, casseroles, or classic French country fare -- cassoulet or French onion soup come readily to mind. (Since the Cecile Chassagne Cotes du Rhone has been one of my PRP faves for a while, I was bowled over when my manager gave me a bottle of it as an Easter gift.)
Cheers!
~ Jan
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Springtime, and the quaffing is tasty
With sunshine and balmy temperatures on the horizon -- if they're not here already -- it's time to think about planning get-togethers with the favorite folks in your life. (Did I forget to mention that both Mother's and Father's Day, Memorial Day, graduations, weddings, and family reunions are right around the corner?) With the wide array of wines available from PRP Wine International, you'll never be at a loss for scoring a hit with your friends and guests, regardless if they prefer fresh, zesty whites or voluptuous, full-tilt reds. Don't hesitate to contact me, via a reply, if you'd like to pick up some of these beauties for your wine collection, or if you'd like to make a milestone event even more memorable with our custom-designed label that showcases that special day.
CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLOMINI DUCA D'AMALFI (VENETO): $18.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
PRP clients the world over have bought oceans of this tempting Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio/Trebbiano blend over the last few decades, and it's easy to understand why: It entices with its lovely nose of orange, tangerine, lemon, lemon blossom, and jasmine, captivates with its sassy citrus flavors, candied-ginger notes, and peppy acidity, and delights with its upbeat finish of orange, lemon, and ginger. One of my personal favorites in PRP's collection, it's unbeatable with grilled chicken, halibut, swordfish, or citrus-marinated shellfish. Enjoy!
2008 VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET CHARDONNAY (LANGUEDOC): $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
The Languedoc -- the region in southern France facing the Mediterranean Sea -- is known for its warm, sunny climate similar to that of California's Central Coast; it's small wonder, then, that hot-weather grapes thrive there. This unoaked, fruit-forward Chard is Exhibit "A" of that concept, with its cheerful and inviting aromas of orange blossom, naval orange, and lemon. The same fruit carries over onto the full, mouth-filling palate, accented by lively notes of ginger and white pepper. It's terrific with chicken or white fish with a citrus salsa, or just by itself.
2007 CHEVALIER DE BAYARD VIN DE PAYS D'OC (LANGUEDOC): $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
This cheerful fruit-forward, light-bodied red blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre from Languedoc is a long-time favorite among PRP customers, who affectionately call it "Chevy Red." Small wonder: It bursts with juicy, mid-palate flavors of raspberry, boysenberry, and strawberry, as well as zesty notes of nutmeg and clove. Not only is it absolutely studly with casual fare -- think burgers, ribs, pizza, meat loaf, or pasta with red sauce -- it's a winner to cook with. (Many of our customers put a healthy splash of Chevy Red on burgers while they're cooking on the grill, with the red fruit bringing out the rich flavors of the beef.) Without a doubt, this selection is a must-have for anyone who enjoys cooking.
2007 SATIRANO BARBERA (PIEDMONT): $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
One of our most in-demand Italian selections is this vivacious winner from Piedmont, the northwesternmost region of Italy renown for Nebbiolo, the grape featured in heavyweight stars Barolo and Barbaresco. This intriguing medium-bodied red offers aromas and flavors of black cherry, fig, black licorice, coffee, and cloves. Keeping things fun is that engaging kiss of lemon, which provides zippy acidity to the vibrant essence of the wine. Throw in a zesty finish of lemon, black cherry, and nutmeg, and you've got a wine that pairs wonderfully with a wide variety of fare, including blackened salmon and pasta topped with marinara sauce. Did I mention it's also nifty to enjoy by itself?
2007 SATIRANO DOLCETTO D'ALBA (PIEDMONT): $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Another lighter red that calls Piedmont home is Dolcetto, and ours is a classic example of the varietal, with to its appealing nose and palate of black cherry, black licorice, coffee, cloves, and a soft hint of smoke. It's a bit softer than Barbera, thanks to a delicate hint of acidity, but its medium body and easy finish of black cherry and baking spices make it one of the more versatile reds known. Try it with an array of comfort entrees, such as meat loaf, beef stroganoff, stew, or anything grilled.
GOLDEN GRAPE 54% SHIRAZ/40% CABERNET SAUVIGNON/6% MERLOT (AUSTRALIA): $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
When fans of big-bodied, full-flavored reds hear Australia mentioned, it's a sure bet their eyes light up. That's why we at PRP offer this robust, jammy red blend with its outgoing scents and flavors of ripe-to-the-point-of-bursting blackberry, boysenberry, and blueberry, as well as hints of cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee, and menthol. Add its opulent body, its gentle tannins, its velvet-soft mouthfeel, and its sweet 'n' spicy finish, and it's clear why this big boy has been a PRP favorite for years. Ribs, anyone?
2005 GOLDEN GRAPE CABERNET SAUVIGNON (RUTHERFORD): $39.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
If you're yearning for an opulent Cab from Napa, search no longer. One of my PRP colleagues sampled this plush beauty at a recent event, and was utterly blown away by its layers of rich, intense currant, blackberry, and plum -- as well as essences of dark chocolate, espresso, freshly cracked black pepper, cloves, and smoke -- that unfold one by one on the velvety palate. Add its gorgeous, deep scents of ripe black fruit, sweet spices, smoke, and earth, not to mention its well-integrated tannins and a lush mid-palate finish of fruit and pepper that seems to last for an hour, and you have an absolute stunner. Please introduce it to a thick cut of ribeye with a port-reduction sauce!
Cheers!
~ Jan
CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLOMINI DUCA D'AMALFI (VENETO): $18.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
PRP clients the world over have bought oceans of this tempting Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio/Trebbiano blend over the last few decades, and it's easy to understand why: It entices with its lovely nose of orange, tangerine, lemon, lemon blossom, and jasmine, captivates with its sassy citrus flavors, candied-ginger notes, and peppy acidity, and delights with its upbeat finish of orange, lemon, and ginger. One of my personal favorites in PRP's collection, it's unbeatable with grilled chicken, halibut, swordfish, or citrus-marinated shellfish. Enjoy!
2008 VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET CHARDONNAY (LANGUEDOC): $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
The Languedoc -- the region in southern France facing the Mediterranean Sea -- is known for its warm, sunny climate similar to that of California's Central Coast; it's small wonder, then, that hot-weather grapes thrive there. This unoaked, fruit-forward Chard is Exhibit "A" of that concept, with its cheerful and inviting aromas of orange blossom, naval orange, and lemon. The same fruit carries over onto the full, mouth-filling palate, accented by lively notes of ginger and white pepper. It's terrific with chicken or white fish with a citrus salsa, or just by itself.
2007 CHEVALIER DE BAYARD VIN DE PAYS D'OC (LANGUEDOC): $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
This cheerful fruit-forward, light-bodied red blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre from Languedoc is a long-time favorite among PRP customers, who affectionately call it "Chevy Red." Small wonder: It bursts with juicy, mid-palate flavors of raspberry, boysenberry, and strawberry, as well as zesty notes of nutmeg and clove. Not only is it absolutely studly with casual fare -- think burgers, ribs, pizza, meat loaf, or pasta with red sauce -- it's a winner to cook with. (Many of our customers put a healthy splash of Chevy Red on burgers while they're cooking on the grill, with the red fruit bringing out the rich flavors of the beef.) Without a doubt, this selection is a must-have for anyone who enjoys cooking.
2007 SATIRANO BARBERA (PIEDMONT): $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
One of our most in-demand Italian selections is this vivacious winner from Piedmont, the northwesternmost region of Italy renown for Nebbiolo, the grape featured in heavyweight stars Barolo and Barbaresco. This intriguing medium-bodied red offers aromas and flavors of black cherry, fig, black licorice, coffee, and cloves. Keeping things fun is that engaging kiss of lemon, which provides zippy acidity to the vibrant essence of the wine. Throw in a zesty finish of lemon, black cherry, and nutmeg, and you've got a wine that pairs wonderfully with a wide variety of fare, including blackened salmon and pasta topped with marinara sauce. Did I mention it's also nifty to enjoy by itself?
2007 SATIRANO DOLCETTO D'ALBA (PIEDMONT): $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Another lighter red that calls Piedmont home is Dolcetto, and ours is a classic example of the varietal, with to its appealing nose and palate of black cherry, black licorice, coffee, cloves, and a soft hint of smoke. It's a bit softer than Barbera, thanks to a delicate hint of acidity, but its medium body and easy finish of black cherry and baking spices make it one of the more versatile reds known. Try it with an array of comfort entrees, such as meat loaf, beef stroganoff, stew, or anything grilled.
GOLDEN GRAPE 54% SHIRAZ/40% CABERNET SAUVIGNON/6% MERLOT (AUSTRALIA): $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
When fans of big-bodied, full-flavored reds hear Australia mentioned, it's a sure bet their eyes light up. That's why we at PRP offer this robust, jammy red blend with its outgoing scents and flavors of ripe-to-the-point-of-bursting blackberry, boysenberry, and blueberry, as well as hints of cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee, and menthol. Add its opulent body, its gentle tannins, its velvet-soft mouthfeel, and its sweet 'n' spicy finish, and it's clear why this big boy has been a PRP favorite for years. Ribs, anyone?
2005 GOLDEN GRAPE CABERNET SAUVIGNON (RUTHERFORD): $39.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
If you're yearning for an opulent Cab from Napa, search no longer. One of my PRP colleagues sampled this plush beauty at a recent event, and was utterly blown away by its layers of rich, intense currant, blackberry, and plum -- as well as essences of dark chocolate, espresso, freshly cracked black pepper, cloves, and smoke -- that unfold one by one on the velvety palate. Add its gorgeous, deep scents of ripe black fruit, sweet spices, smoke, and earth, not to mention its well-integrated tannins and a lush mid-palate finish of fruit and pepper that seems to last for an hour, and you have an absolute stunner. Please introduce it to a thick cut of ribeye with a port-reduction sauce!
Cheers!
~ Jan
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Embrace spring with wines for every palate
When you're in the wine business, you're involved in a happy whirlwind of a wide range of activities -- events, promotions, and many others -- with sampling wines you've never tried before as the happiest, of course. And if being introduced to a bevy of distinguished selections isn't enough to make a soul smile, the gorgeous early spring weather that Southern California denizens have enjoyed the last few weeks is sure to do the trick. (Let's hope we're seeing the last of cold and gloomy springs!) With that, let's bring on on a variety of selections that'll appeal to a wide range of wine fans:
RAUENTHALER STEINMACHER 2006 SPATLESE RIESLING/RHEINGAU: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
When I poured this vivacious Spat, my better half was relaxing that afternoon, sprawled out on the couch in front of the tube and flipping channels before settling on "Herbie Fully Loaded," the 2005 Disney vehicle starring the oft-troubled Lindsay Lohan. (Don't worry, folks: He's not a devotee of pre-teen Disney fare.) That's when I realized that the phrase fully loaded describes this Rheingau beauty to a "T," starting with its lovely golden hue and ultra-aromatic noce of ripe pineapple, tangerine, and orange blossom. Add its astonishing mid-palate explosion of pineapple, lemon, tangerine, pear, and dried apricot -- with notes of candied ginger and cinnamon to keep things lively -- as well as that exotic texture of zippy acidity and luscious butter. Add a lengthy finish of butter and pineapple, and you've got a wine that'll be sure to impress your guests at your springtime feasts. May I suggest pairing this loaded Riesling with glazed ham topped with pineapple?
CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLOMINI 2007 SICILIA SANGIOVESE: $12.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Here's a classy, balanced Sangiovese (yep, folks, that's the grape that's featured in Chianti, Tuscany's oenological claim to fame) priced for fans of the varietal to enjoy every night, yet noteworthy enough for a dinner party or a gift. Despite the fact that this Sangiovese is grown in a region better known for the brooding Nero d'Avola, everything about this Piccolomini selection showcases the varietal at its brightest and food-worthy best: its subtle nose of Bing cherries, strawberries, lemon, and a hint of rose petals; its mouthwatering flavors of tangy red and black cherries, strawberries, green peppers, dill, oregano, and peppercorns that dance all over the palate; its fun squirt of lemony acidity, and its laid-back finish of green pepper and oregano. While it's a natural match with herb-loaded marinara sauce, don't be shy about introducing it to spicy blackened salmon (a favorite at home), chili, Tex-Mex dishes, or meat/turkey loaf.
DEEPWOOD CELLARS 2007 CHARDONNAY/MONTEREY: $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
As most wine fans already know, there's been a relatively serious backlash during the last few years among the public regarding heavily oaked, over-extracted Chards with finishes so heavy that they resemble gasoline. I tend to agree with the dissenters of this type. To paraphrase the title of that 005 Disney trifle I'd mentioned earlier, the Chardonnay grape is, by its own merits, so fully loaded that it doesn't need much -- if any -- interference from anyone else than Mother Nature. If any wine makes this case perfectly, it's this deceptively voluptuous offering from Monterey, which offers a seductive bouquet of succulent melon and butter; a rich mid-palate deluge of melon, lemon, and lime, with intriguing hints of eucalyptus, menthol, and dill; and a caressing finish of butter, lemon, and dill. This wine is an obvious pick to click with chicken, halibut, swordfish, or mahi mahi with lemon-dill sauce -- as well as souffles -- but its full body and dynamic flavors can make it a great match with a wide variety of fare.
CHATEAU BERTIN 2005 BORDEAUX/ST. EMILION: $30.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Stop me if you've hear or read this before, but 2005 has been hailed as one of the finest vintages for Bordeaux in years. (When I'd been the owner-manager of a wine shop in northeastern Orange County, I was briefly in the lucky position of having both an '00 and an '05 -- two vintage winners -- in stock at the same time. How good was that?) Anyway, to paraphrase one of my PRP collegues in describing that landmark '05 vintage, winemakers in Bordeaux were blessed with such good fortune from the oenological gods that year that they pretty much sat back and let the terroir take care of the grapes. As a result, everyone who has the savvy to pick up the '05 will experience the opulence and complexity this vintage offers in abundance. Truly, the Bertin is a don't miss, as well as one of my all-time favorites. It's a show-stopper, from its rich nose of dry currant, blackberry, earth, smoke, and understated floral notes; its flavors of dusty blackberry, currant, plum, cedar, earth, and gravel that unfold on the mid-palate; its gorgeous structure and balance; its mellow, faintly minerally acidity, and its lingering, smoky finish. While balanced Bordeaux such as this one are ideal with aged beef or rack of lamb, don't hesitate to pair this one with grilled steaks -- its smoky flavors and finish are a natural with anything with a bit of char -- or with your favorite stews, cassoulet, or French onion soup.
DEEPWOOD CELLARS NV BLACK MUSCAT/LODI: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Still wondering what to serve with that can't-resist creme brulee, dessert souffle, Meyer lemon tart, or favorite fruit dessert you've prepared so carefully for your spring desserts? Ponder no more: This sweetie from Lodi -- the hot-weather region known best as a top source of high-octane Zinfandels -- befriends all of those postprandial treats, and more. Not only is it pretty to look at (how can you turn away from its enchanting ruby color?), it's a charmer to enjoy, with its nose of ultra-ripe raspberries and boysenberries, its flavors of massively ripe red berries that explode all over the middle palate, and its soft, gentle finish that subtly accents your chosen dessert. Now that I think of it, this Black Muscat would also be ideal with French vanilla ice cream, strudel, white chocolate ... and a host of other opulent goodies.
Cheers!
~ Jan
RAUENTHALER STEINMACHER 2006 SPATLESE RIESLING/RHEINGAU: $22.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
When I poured this vivacious Spat, my better half was relaxing that afternoon, sprawled out on the couch in front of the tube and flipping channels before settling on "Herbie Fully Loaded," the 2005 Disney vehicle starring the oft-troubled Lindsay Lohan. (Don't worry, folks: He's not a devotee of pre-teen Disney fare.) That's when I realized that the phrase fully loaded describes this Rheingau beauty to a "T," starting with its lovely golden hue and ultra-aromatic noce of ripe pineapple, tangerine, and orange blossom. Add its astonishing mid-palate explosion of pineapple, lemon, tangerine, pear, and dried apricot -- with notes of candied ginger and cinnamon to keep things lively -- as well as that exotic texture of zippy acidity and luscious butter. Add a lengthy finish of butter and pineapple, and you've got a wine that'll be sure to impress your guests at your springtime feasts. May I suggest pairing this loaded Riesling with glazed ham topped with pineapple?
CONTE OTTAVIO PICCOLOMINI 2007 SICILIA SANGIOVESE: $12.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Here's a classy, balanced Sangiovese (yep, folks, that's the grape that's featured in Chianti, Tuscany's oenological claim to fame) priced for fans of the varietal to enjoy every night, yet noteworthy enough for a dinner party or a gift. Despite the fact that this Sangiovese is grown in a region better known for the brooding Nero d'Avola, everything about this Piccolomini selection showcases the varietal at its brightest and food-worthy best: its subtle nose of Bing cherries, strawberries, lemon, and a hint of rose petals; its mouthwatering flavors of tangy red and black cherries, strawberries, green peppers, dill, oregano, and peppercorns that dance all over the palate; its fun squirt of lemony acidity, and its laid-back finish of green pepper and oregano. While it's a natural match with herb-loaded marinara sauce, don't be shy about introducing it to spicy blackened salmon (a favorite at home), chili, Tex-Mex dishes, or meat/turkey loaf.
DEEPWOOD CELLARS 2007 CHARDONNAY/MONTEREY: $21.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
As most wine fans already know, there's been a relatively serious backlash during the last few years among the public regarding heavily oaked, over-extracted Chards with finishes so heavy that they resemble gasoline. I tend to agree with the dissenters of this type. To paraphrase the title of that 005 Disney trifle I'd mentioned earlier, the Chardonnay grape is, by its own merits, so fully loaded that it doesn't need much -- if any -- interference from anyone else than Mother Nature. If any wine makes this case perfectly, it's this deceptively voluptuous offering from Monterey, which offers a seductive bouquet of succulent melon and butter; a rich mid-palate deluge of melon, lemon, and lime, with intriguing hints of eucalyptus, menthol, and dill; and a caressing finish of butter, lemon, and dill. This wine is an obvious pick to click with chicken, halibut, swordfish, or mahi mahi with lemon-dill sauce -- as well as souffles -- but its full body and dynamic flavors can make it a great match with a wide variety of fare.
CHATEAU BERTIN 2005 BORDEAUX/ST. EMILION: $30.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Stop me if you've hear or read this before, but 2005 has been hailed as one of the finest vintages for Bordeaux in years. (When I'd been the owner-manager of a wine shop in northeastern Orange County, I was briefly in the lucky position of having both an '00 and an '05 -- two vintage winners -- in stock at the same time. How good was that?) Anyway, to paraphrase one of my PRP collegues in describing that landmark '05 vintage, winemakers in Bordeaux were blessed with such good fortune from the oenological gods that year that they pretty much sat back and let the terroir take care of the grapes. As a result, everyone who has the savvy to pick up the '05 will experience the opulence and complexity this vintage offers in abundance. Truly, the Bertin is a don't miss, as well as one of my all-time favorites. It's a show-stopper, from its rich nose of dry currant, blackberry, earth, smoke, and understated floral notes; its flavors of dusty blackberry, currant, plum, cedar, earth, and gravel that unfold on the mid-palate; its gorgeous structure and balance; its mellow, faintly minerally acidity, and its lingering, smoky finish. While balanced Bordeaux such as this one are ideal with aged beef or rack of lamb, don't hesitate to pair this one with grilled steaks -- its smoky flavors and finish are a natural with anything with a bit of char -- or with your favorite stews, cassoulet, or French onion soup.
DEEPWOOD CELLARS NV BLACK MUSCAT/LODI: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Still wondering what to serve with that can't-resist creme brulee, dessert souffle, Meyer lemon tart, or favorite fruit dessert you've prepared so carefully for your spring desserts? Ponder no more: This sweetie from Lodi -- the hot-weather region known best as a top source of high-octane Zinfandels -- befriends all of those postprandial treats, and more. Not only is it pretty to look at (how can you turn away from its enchanting ruby color?), it's a charmer to enjoy, with its nose of ultra-ripe raspberries and boysenberries, its flavors of massively ripe red berries that explode all over the middle palate, and its soft, gentle finish that subtly accents your chosen dessert. Now that I think of it, this Black Muscat would also be ideal with French vanilla ice cream, strudel, white chocolate ... and a host of other opulent goodies.
Cheers!
~ Jan
Monday, December 29, 2008
Whenever you're craving winter-ready comfort fare, be sure to have this on hand
Whether "winter weather" means highs in the 30s (as it does for my brother, a resident of Denver since June) or in the 60s (as it does for me in Placentia, a town eight miles north of Disneyland), it's likely that many of us have a big-time hankering for comfort fare at this time of the year. If you're craving the likes of meat loaf, pot roast, stew, chili, chicken and dumplings, pork chops, cheesy casseroles, mac 'n' cheese, or mashed potatoes these days, take heart: There's a wide array of hearty, savory, and affordable wines that pair effortlessly with your homespun culinary favorites. Here's one that my husband and I especially enjoy:
VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET '06 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/RHONE: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
It's no secret: I love unpretentious reds with plenty of easy-going, peppery rusticity -- in other words, anything with that appealing Cotes du Rhone vibe. Similar to the recently reviewed Cabrini Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza in its warmth and spice is this approachable Cab. Even though this red's grapes are sourced from Saint-Jean-d'Ardieres, a village that straddles northern and southern Rhone, its casual and spunky soul are undeniably southern. Its lovely tawny-garnet color and intense nose of ripe currants, plums, grilled meat, and peppercorns entice, while flavors of dry blackberries and currants join essences of cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and smoke. Firm but nicely integrated tannins add structure to the wine's supple, medium-sized body, as well as a mellow, peppery finish that lingers for minutes. And even though the Romanet Cab would be a slam dunk with any time-honored comfort-food entree, don't even think of wasting a wine of this caliber on a bowl of SpaghettiO's.
VICOMTE BERNARD DE ROMANET '06 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/RHONE: $19.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
It's no secret: I love unpretentious reds with plenty of easy-going, peppery rusticity -- in other words, anything with that appealing Cotes du Rhone vibe. Similar to the recently reviewed Cabrini Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza in its warmth and spice is this approachable Cab. Even though this red's grapes are sourced from Saint-Jean-d'Ardieres, a village that straddles northern and southern Rhone, its casual and spunky soul are undeniably southern. Its lovely tawny-garnet color and intense nose of ripe currants, plums, grilled meat, and peppercorns entice, while flavors of dry blackberries and currants join essences of cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and smoke. Firm but nicely integrated tannins add structure to the wine's supple, medium-sized body, as well as a mellow, peppery finish that lingers for minutes. And even though the Romanet Cab would be a slam dunk with any time-honored comfort-food entree, don't even think of wasting a wine of this caliber on a bowl of SpaghettiO's.
A Cotes du Rhone from Mendoza? That's right
The last time I rambled on about Southern California's weather, it was about six weeks ago in mid-November. That was when triple-digit heat and bone-dry gusts teamed up to produce some scary firestorms throughout the region. Since then, the weather here has pulled a U-turn for the holidays, with the mecury barely touching 55 during the day and in the low 30s at night. But no matter whether you regard this weather as invigorating (I do) or nasty (the view of about 70 percent of locals), you're probably going to crave a hearty, earthy, rustic red with your winter dinners. Here's one that'll pair wonderfully with your comfort-food favorites and warm your innards:
CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12
I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.
CABRINI 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MENDOZA: ABOUT $12
I tend to agree with the leading lights of the wine world who refer to Argentina -- more specifically, the regions of Mendoza and Salta -- as home to some of the world's finest and most appealing "new old world" wines. Mother Nature has blessed those two regions with some of the most remarkable conditions on Earth for cultivating wine: exceedingly high altitudes (Mendoza's vineyards are rarely below 3,000 feet above sea level, while many of Salta's range from 5,000 to 10,000 above the ocean); skies almost totally free of air pollution; a wide daily temperature range (summer highs frequently pass 100 degrees Fahrenheit); annual rainfall totals of about four inches; irrigation provided by snowmelt from the Andes; and barren, sandy soil. It's no wonder, then, that grapes from Mendoza's and Salta's vineyards feature stunning degrees of complexity and character. While the terroir is decidedly new world, the subtlety and elegance that's the aim of the regions' winemakers is European through and through. The Cabrini family, owners of their winery since 1918, showcases these "new old world" elements in each of their wines, and their unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon is proof of that. Grapes sourced from an 84-year-old vineyard on Bodega Cabrini, 3,100 feet above sea level, provide nuance and intrigue without any interference from oak ageing. This undeniably European approach shows up in the wine's potent "barnyard" aroma -- a trademark of a classic Cotes du Rhone -- and rustic, satisfying flavors of plums, currants, mushrooms, coffee, earth, smoke, and freshly ground black pepper. Its medium body with mellow tannins and a peppery finish make it a natural with any of your favorite cool-weather comfort entrees. Stews? Check. Chili? Check. Cassoulet? Check. Braised or grilled meats? Check. Mac 'n' cheese? Check. Meat loaf? Double check. With a retail price tag hovering around $12, this is a red offering class and comfort; it's definitely worth a search.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Opulence meets elegance: a lovely, full-bodied South African Chardonnay
As many wine fans know well, the move away from aggressive "oaking" in New World regions is well underway -- and not a moment too soon. Over the last few decades, varietals that had the potential to benefit with ageing in oak barrels had become unbalanced, heavy-handed brutes that conflict with the very entrees they were intended to complement. Is it any wonder why I agree with the European winemaking credo of leaving Mother Nature alone while she creates wine?
As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).
BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.
As it turns out, the many vignerons of South Africa subscribe to this theory as well. The area -- home of its first wine estate, Constantia, in 1685 -- is enjoying a re-birth as a reknown region following decades of mediocrity. Pinotage (read: Pinot Noir and Cinsault) and Chenin Blanc (a.k.a. "Steen") remain South Africa's vinous calling cards, but an array of warm-weather varietals are strutting their stuff, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, and Chardonnay. With peak summer temperatures frequently passing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, grapes easily attain intense ripeness once harvestation occurs in early February. Here's a must-try from Paarl, Stellenbosch's neighbor region that's the former headquarters of South Africa's wine industry, Co-operative Wine Growers (KWV in Afrikaans).
BOLAND CELLAR '08 CHARDONNAY/PAARL: $17.99 (A PRP WINE EXCLUSIVE)
Kudos have been poured onto Boland at prestigious wine competitions the last few years, especially the the awards for Best International Winemaker of the Year and Best South African Producer at the 2001 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. It's clear why the team of cellar master/viticulturalist Jurie Germishuys and winemakers Naudé Bruwer and Bernard Smuts have garnered such notice, especially with their lovely Chardonnay. Grapes from 10- to 15-year-old vines are harvested by hand from early to mid-Februrary; following the harvest, 70% of the grapes are aged in French oak for three months. The result is special indeed, starting with the wine's delicate straw color and its rich, appealing scents and flavors of banana, cantaloupe, canary melon, vanilla, and a hint of lemon. Notes of white pepper, ginger, and dill add intrigue to the wine's opulently buttery mouthfeel and lingering finish. While Boland's Chardonnay is undeniably voluptuous, its elegance and balance set it far apart from its gaudier brethren drowning in toasted oak. It's a must for rich shellfish entrees -- think crab cakes, as well as lobster or scallops in butter sauce -- not to mention corn or clam chowder.
Friday, November 7, 2008
There's no better time for this elegant red for all seasons
The sense of dislocation of middle autumn in southern California can only be described as mind-boggling. Where else in the greater 48 can you experience 90-degree November days, with Santa Ana winds arid enough to make you crave a Calamine bath? (To the unintiated, this is what meteorologists call "fire weather," the combination of intense heat and dryness that causes entire communities to burst into flames at this time every year.) Now imagine what it's like to park your car, cross the parking lot with that heat and those high winds leaving you sweaty and tousled, wander into your neighborhood grocery store, and walk right into an end-cap display brimming with decorative horns o' plenty and Santas.
Welcome to the traditional start of southern California's holiday season.
Yes, I'm very aware that this country's weather is as variable as any on the planet. While locals here roast and endure 58-mph gusts (that's what I've just read on a local news source), the Midwest is getting hammered by an early snowstorm, and residents in the Northeast are just digging out from several days of heavy rain. Yet no matter where American oenophiles live, most of them still want a glass of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Grenache, Sangiovese, or another light red with their dinner. That preference is easy to understand, since they've probably quaffed easy-drinking whites, roses, and bubblies for the last six months to beat the heat and humidity.
So what'll satisfy wine fans not yet ready to plunge into heavyweights Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, or Bordeaux for the next five months ... and, come to think of it, be a star on Turkey Day?
REGNARD HAUT COTES DE BEAUNE PINOT NOIR 2005/CHABLIS: ABOUT $15
100% Pinot Noir. In 1860, Zephir Regnard founded his winemaking business, a house that would later become of the most prestigious in the Chablis sub-region. Baron Patrick de Ladoucette bought Regnaud in 1984, ensuring its dedication to producing wines of classic style and tradition. The essence of a classic red Burgundy is a haunting, unforgettable melding of purity, delicacy, and earthiness, and this ethereal beauty from Baron de Ladoucette has those qualities in abundance: a gossamer-light bouquet and palate of Bing cherries, lilacs, roses, mushrooms, black pepper, and freshly tilled earth. With its pale ruby hue, fragile body, surprising grip on the mid-palate, and an ever-lasting finish with subtle spices. It summarizes everything that this varietal from this famed region should be. It acts like a premier cru with a price tag of at least $50, yet numerous retailers have it on their shelves in the $15 neighborhood. If you haven't had the chance to sample a quality Burgundy, take the plunge. (Dare we suggest that its elegance and balance would make it a hit on your Thanksgiving table?)
Welcome to the traditional start of southern California's holiday season.
Yes, I'm very aware that this country's weather is as variable as any on the planet. While locals here roast and endure 58-mph gusts (that's what I've just read on a local news source), the Midwest is getting hammered by an early snowstorm, and residents in the Northeast are just digging out from several days of heavy rain. Yet no matter where American oenophiles live, most of them still want a glass of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Grenache, Sangiovese, or another light red with their dinner. That preference is easy to understand, since they've probably quaffed easy-drinking whites, roses, and bubblies for the last six months to beat the heat and humidity.
So what'll satisfy wine fans not yet ready to plunge into heavyweights Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, or Bordeaux for the next five months ... and, come to think of it, be a star on Turkey Day?
REGNARD HAUT COTES DE BEAUNE PINOT NOIR 2005/CHABLIS: ABOUT $15
100% Pinot Noir. In 1860, Zephir Regnard founded his winemaking business, a house that would later become of the most prestigious in the Chablis sub-region. Baron Patrick de Ladoucette bought Regnaud in 1984, ensuring its dedication to producing wines of classic style and tradition. The essence of a classic red Burgundy is a haunting, unforgettable melding of purity, delicacy, and earthiness, and this ethereal beauty from Baron de Ladoucette has those qualities in abundance: a gossamer-light bouquet and palate of Bing cherries, lilacs, roses, mushrooms, black pepper, and freshly tilled earth. With its pale ruby hue, fragile body, surprising grip on the mid-palate, and an ever-lasting finish with subtle spices. It summarizes everything that this varietal from this famed region should be. It acts like a premier cru with a price tag of at least $50, yet numerous retailers have it on their shelves in the $15 neighborhood. If you haven't had the chance to sample a quality Burgundy, take the plunge. (Dare we suggest that its elegance and balance would make it a hit on your Thanksgiving table?)
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Meet Agiorgitiko: a cheerful Greek with great "match appeal"
Suppose you’re in the mood for a red, and Indian summer’s still in full tilt. Big boys such as Syrah, Malbec, or Cabernet Sauvignon won’t do, nor will bantamweights Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, especially if that’s nearly all you’ve sipped the last six months. What to pour?
Once again, I’ll repeat my oenological mantra: Think outside the bottle. Few varietals would fit the bill better than Agiorgitiko, a nervy red grape with a lively streak of acidity. It’s a native of the Peloponnese, a region in southern Greece south of the Gulf of Corinth that’s nurtured by the plentiful sun and warmth that defines the Mediterranean climate.
The region’s soil, on the other hand, is barren and dry as any on the planet – an unlikely setting to cultivate vineyards. However, while the Agiorgitiko grape features the same lightness and fruitiness of its ever-popular sibling Pinot Noir, it requires none of its care. “(Pinot) is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early,” says the Miles Raymond character in Sideways, adding that it “needs constant care and attention … and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.” On the contrary, Agiorgitiko develops its vibrant freshness in conditions – desolate soil and intense, searing sun – that’d destroy the delicate likes of Pinot Noir.
What does Agiorgitiko offer? Plenty. Its classic trademarks include exuberant, fresh-from-the-vine scents and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, an array of zesty spices, a light body, and tangy acidity. It’s a young soul, this varietal, one with an irrepressibly cheerful and spunky demeanor. Thanks to its self-reliant nature, one of its most appealing features is its appealing price tag, usually around the $10 neighborhood. Even though it’s a staple on wine lists of Greek restaurants coast to coast, Agiorgitiko is at home with any fare usually paired with Pinot Noir and other light reds. Here’s one that’s one of our favorites:
ACHAIA CLAUSS DRY RED WINE “DANIELIS” NV/PATRAS: ABOUT $12
100% Agiorgitiko. In 1854, native Bavarian Gustav Clauss visited Patras, a region in northwestern Peloponnese, and liked it so much he chose to settle there. The first wines he produced there were Mavrodaphne – a sweet red grape transplanted from the Ionian Islands – and Muscat of Patras. In 1861, seven years after putting down roots in his new land and creating his wines, Gustav built the Achaia Clauss winery. More than 150 years later, it’s one of Greece’s best-known wineries, with a portfolio that features 32 different wines and four spirits than run the gamut from young, refreshing quaffers to boutique-style wines with power and depth. Gustav, we think, would truly enjoy sipping a glass of his “Danielis,” a soft, spunky red that shows the charm of the Agiorgitiko grape. Spunky red fruit, ginger, and a zippy touch of pepper dance all over the palate. Versatility is its calling card, as welcome at a holiday dinner as on a picnic.
Once again, I’ll repeat my oenological mantra: Think outside the bottle. Few varietals would fit the bill better than Agiorgitiko, a nervy red grape with a lively streak of acidity. It’s a native of the Peloponnese, a region in southern Greece south of the Gulf of Corinth that’s nurtured by the plentiful sun and warmth that defines the Mediterranean climate.
The region’s soil, on the other hand, is barren and dry as any on the planet – an unlikely setting to cultivate vineyards. However, while the Agiorgitiko grape features the same lightness and fruitiness of its ever-popular sibling Pinot Noir, it requires none of its care. “(Pinot) is thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early,” says the Miles Raymond character in Sideways, adding that it “needs constant care and attention … and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.” On the contrary, Agiorgitiko develops its vibrant freshness in conditions – desolate soil and intense, searing sun – that’d destroy the delicate likes of Pinot Noir.
What does Agiorgitiko offer? Plenty. Its classic trademarks include exuberant, fresh-from-the-vine scents and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, an array of zesty spices, a light body, and tangy acidity. It’s a young soul, this varietal, one with an irrepressibly cheerful and spunky demeanor. Thanks to its self-reliant nature, one of its most appealing features is its appealing price tag, usually around the $10 neighborhood. Even though it’s a staple on wine lists of Greek restaurants coast to coast, Agiorgitiko is at home with any fare usually paired with Pinot Noir and other light reds. Here’s one that’s one of our favorites:
ACHAIA CLAUSS DRY RED WINE “DANIELIS” NV/PATRAS: ABOUT $12
100% Agiorgitiko. In 1854, native Bavarian Gustav Clauss visited Patras, a region in northwestern Peloponnese, and liked it so much he chose to settle there. The first wines he produced there were Mavrodaphne – a sweet red grape transplanted from the Ionian Islands – and Muscat of Patras. In 1861, seven years after putting down roots in his new land and creating his wines, Gustav built the Achaia Clauss winery. More than 150 years later, it’s one of Greece’s best-known wineries, with a portfolio that features 32 different wines and four spirits than run the gamut from young, refreshing quaffers to boutique-style wines with power and depth. Gustav, we think, would truly enjoy sipping a glass of his “Danielis,” a soft, spunky red that shows the charm of the Agiorgitiko grape. Spunky red fruit, ginger, and a zippy touch of pepper dance all over the palate. Versatility is its calling card, as welcome at a holiday dinner as on a picnic.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
So you want a snappy bargain wine? Here's one for toasty weather
It's been brutal in southern California these last few days, with mid-day temperatures nearing the century mark and violent, dry Santa Ana windstorms searing throats. "Fire weather" is what locals term these disagreeable conditions, since the terrain in this region has the unfortunate tendency to go up in flames at around this time each year.
As if the climate isn't enough for people here to contend with, consider the economy. I call the mess a total collapse, while my 84-year-old parents say it's worse than the original Great Depression they remember as elementary-school kids. It's ugly everywhere, but few places nastier than here in Orange County, the unofficial headquarters of the mortgage, financial, and contracting industries on the west coast. Rarely a day passes without news of a local mortgage or financial firm slashing drastic numbers of staffers, many to battle personal financial crises they'd never imagined.
Even for those who haven't had things so rough, the economic climate is nevertheless a definite downer. What's an oenophile to do when Wall Street takes massive belly flops of several hundred points each day?
Here's my advice: Think outside the box -- ahem, bottle -- for maximum quality for a minimal price. Over the last year, wine pundits have enthusiastically pointed to Spain and Portugal as superb sources for excellent, extremely affordable juice. The Better Half and I, long fans of tantalizingly priced Riojas, nod in agreement.
With that, here's what to pour when both the heat and the economic collapse get their angry on:
ALIANCA CASAL MENDES VINHO BRANCO NV/VINHO VERDE: ABOUT $6
Pederna and Azal Branco (both unidentified quantities). Alianca was founded in 1927 by Portugal's Bairrada Dellimited Region. According to Daniel Sogg of Wine Spectator, Alianca is one of the 20 best wine companies in the world. "Alianca is a family company that is one of the most advanced and modern wine producers in Portugal," he points out, of which "the quality has been a guide in the path to success on the recent crops." The wine companies honored offer stunning value, as well as distinctive flavors for the varietals from the region's leading wine regions. Casal Mendes' Vinho Branco stands out as a perfect Exhibit A of the concept of top quality for a song: Two workhorse white grapes -- Pederna and Azal Branco, both bit players in white Port and lighter white Portuguese blends -- lend their fresh appeal. Starting with its delicate straw color and its tempting scents of fresh citrus, it offers tangy, light flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, and kiwi, as well as a lovely lift of acidity and a spunky, peppy finish of ginger and star anise. It's just the thing with a sizable range of fare: poultry, halibut, mahi mahi, sushi, and an array of cheese-based vegetarian entrees. Then again, it's great as a preprandial sipper, a way to take off the edge on a hot, gusty day. Best of all is its price tag: $6 or under, for a 750 ml bottle, at better wine shops.
As if the climate isn't enough for people here to contend with, consider the economy. I call the mess a total collapse, while my 84-year-old parents say it's worse than the original Great Depression they remember as elementary-school kids. It's ugly everywhere, but few places nastier than here in Orange County, the unofficial headquarters of the mortgage, financial, and contracting industries on the west coast. Rarely a day passes without news of a local mortgage or financial firm slashing drastic numbers of staffers, many to battle personal financial crises they'd never imagined.
Even for those who haven't had things so rough, the economic climate is nevertheless a definite downer. What's an oenophile to do when Wall Street takes massive belly flops of several hundred points each day?
Here's my advice: Think outside the box -- ahem, bottle -- for maximum quality for a minimal price. Over the last year, wine pundits have enthusiastically pointed to Spain and Portugal as superb sources for excellent, extremely affordable juice. The Better Half and I, long fans of tantalizingly priced Riojas, nod in agreement.
With that, here's what to pour when both the heat and the economic collapse get their angry on:
ALIANCA CASAL MENDES VINHO BRANCO NV/VINHO VERDE: ABOUT $6
Pederna and Azal Branco (both unidentified quantities). Alianca was founded in 1927 by Portugal's Bairrada Dellimited Region. According to Daniel Sogg of Wine Spectator, Alianca is one of the 20 best wine companies in the world. "Alianca is a family company that is one of the most advanced and modern wine producers in Portugal," he points out, of which "the quality has been a guide in the path to success on the recent crops." The wine companies honored offer stunning value, as well as distinctive flavors for the varietals from the region's leading wine regions. Casal Mendes' Vinho Branco stands out as a perfect Exhibit A of the concept of top quality for a song: Two workhorse white grapes -- Pederna and Azal Branco, both bit players in white Port and lighter white Portuguese blends -- lend their fresh appeal. Starting with its delicate straw color and its tempting scents of fresh citrus, it offers tangy, light flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, and kiwi, as well as a lovely lift of acidity and a spunky, peppy finish of ginger and star anise. It's just the thing with a sizable range of fare: poultry, halibut, mahi mahi, sushi, and an array of cheese-based vegetarian entrees. Then again, it's great as a preprandial sipper, a way to take off the edge on a hot, gusty day. Best of all is its price tag: $6 or under, for a 750 ml bottle, at better wine shops.
Monday, October 20, 2008
After an enforced sabbatical, I'm ready for the good stuff
Many apologies for being away so long.
Not only did our computer go on the fritz for several days last week, I did, too: An early-season flu KO'ed me Oct. 10, leaving me with the mental and physical energy of a garden slug. As a result, I took a week-long sabbatical from wine, downing TheraFlu Severe Cold Formula, NyQuil, and Early Times toddies. (Why deplete what little there is of your tiny wine collection when you know full well that your taste buds wouldn't be able to discern Arbor Mist from '61 Petrus?) By now, I'm almost back to normal, as is my palate ... provided it hasn't been assaulted too badly by a week's worth of cold meds. No matter: I'll talk about one of my top wine finds of the year, one that The Better Half and I discovered at the end of July.
On the last Sunday of July, we made the 100-mile drive to Julian, a rustic 19th-century mining town 4,235 feet above sea level in northeastern San Diego County. About 1,600 folks are year-round residents of this artsy-quaint locale, an official California Historic Landmark that bursts its seams each autumn with tourists celebrating the town's Apple Days festival. After about three hours of hoofing around town that sun-splashed afternoon checking out the town's historic sites, we strolled into the tasting room of Witch Creek Winery (http://www.witchcreekwinery.com/) to see for ourselves what was behind the wines' eye-catching labels.
WITCH CREEK WINERY 2006 AGLIANICO/VALLE DE GUADALUPE: $16
Established 15 years ago in Carlsbad, Witch Creek Winery is named after a small waterway near the northern San Diego County town of Ramona. The winery itself sources its grapes from some rather esoteric regions, most notably Valle de Guadalupe in northwestern Mexico, roughly 14 miles north of Ensenada. The fruit goes into small-production wines, termed by their vignerons as "rich, full bodied, and well balanced." While oenophiles can find plenty of pleasure from Witch Creek's reserve Cab, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc, it's the lesser-known varietals that really sing. (Kudos to the Wodehouse family, the founders of Witch Creek Winery, for having the vision to go with a host of Italian and Spanish grapes -- Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese, for starters -- that thrive in their Californian and Mexican vineyards.) The star of the show, however, is the '06 Aglianico. If the name of the varietal doesn't ring a bell, don't fret; it's a grape from the southern Italian regions of Campania and Basilicata that nearly always ends up in a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In its Italian incarnation, Aglianico makes for hearty, boisterous, full-flavored drinking -- which, interestingly, is the polar opposite of its Mexican counterpart.
Pretty, soft, and exquisitely balanced are the words we repeated as we plumbed the Aglianico's character. The juice is truly a charmer, starting with its ruby-red hue and continuing with its appealing, fresh nose of Bing cherries, raspberries, and crabapples. Add lovely and subtle hints of black pepper, cloves, leather, and smoke to the appealing fruit flavors -- as well as a supple, rounded notes of lilac and pepper on the gently lingering finish -- and you've found a genuinely food-worthy wine with more pairing possibilities than can be imagined. It'll drink well, and distinctively, for another three or four years. (Need more info? The '06 Aglianico was awarded a bronze medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition earlier this year.)
Is there a negative side to this beauty? Sadly, yes: The manager of the Julian tasting room told us that the head folks at Witch Creek make sure that their wine is available only at their tasting sites (Julian and Carlsbad), or by phone or online order. On the other hand, its modest price tag -- $20 -- more than compensates for its relative inaccessibility.
After finishing this entry, I'm more than ready to make toddies a thing of the past.
Not only did our computer go on the fritz for several days last week, I did, too: An early-season flu KO'ed me Oct. 10, leaving me with the mental and physical energy of a garden slug. As a result, I took a week-long sabbatical from wine, downing TheraFlu Severe Cold Formula, NyQuil, and Early Times toddies. (Why deplete what little there is of your tiny wine collection when you know full well that your taste buds wouldn't be able to discern Arbor Mist from '61 Petrus?) By now, I'm almost back to normal, as is my palate ... provided it hasn't been assaulted too badly by a week's worth of cold meds. No matter: I'll talk about one of my top wine finds of the year, one that The Better Half and I discovered at the end of July.
On the last Sunday of July, we made the 100-mile drive to Julian, a rustic 19th-century mining town 4,235 feet above sea level in northeastern San Diego County. About 1,600 folks are year-round residents of this artsy-quaint locale, an official California Historic Landmark that bursts its seams each autumn with tourists celebrating the town's Apple Days festival. After about three hours of hoofing around town that sun-splashed afternoon checking out the town's historic sites, we strolled into the tasting room of Witch Creek Winery (http://www.witchcreekwinery.com/) to see for ourselves what was behind the wines' eye-catching labels.
WITCH CREEK WINERY 2006 AGLIANICO/VALLE DE GUADALUPE: $16
Established 15 years ago in Carlsbad, Witch Creek Winery is named after a small waterway near the northern San Diego County town of Ramona. The winery itself sources its grapes from some rather esoteric regions, most notably Valle de Guadalupe in northwestern Mexico, roughly 14 miles north of Ensenada. The fruit goes into small-production wines, termed by their vignerons as "rich, full bodied, and well balanced." While oenophiles can find plenty of pleasure from Witch Creek's reserve Cab, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc, it's the lesser-known varietals that really sing. (Kudos to the Wodehouse family, the founders of Witch Creek Winery, for having the vision to go with a host of Italian and Spanish grapes -- Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese, for starters -- that thrive in their Californian and Mexican vineyards.) The star of the show, however, is the '06 Aglianico. If the name of the varietal doesn't ring a bell, don't fret; it's a grape from the southern Italian regions of Campania and Basilicata that nearly always ends up in a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In its Italian incarnation, Aglianico makes for hearty, boisterous, full-flavored drinking -- which, interestingly, is the polar opposite of its Mexican counterpart.
Pretty, soft, and exquisitely balanced are the words we repeated as we plumbed the Aglianico's character. The juice is truly a charmer, starting with its ruby-red hue and continuing with its appealing, fresh nose of Bing cherries, raspberries, and crabapples. Add lovely and subtle hints of black pepper, cloves, leather, and smoke to the appealing fruit flavors -- as well as a supple, rounded notes of lilac and pepper on the gently lingering finish -- and you've found a genuinely food-worthy wine with more pairing possibilities than can be imagined. It'll drink well, and distinctively, for another three or four years. (Need more info? The '06 Aglianico was awarded a bronze medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition earlier this year.)
Is there a negative side to this beauty? Sadly, yes: The manager of the Julian tasting room told us that the head folks at Witch Creek make sure that their wine is available only at their tasting sites (Julian and Carlsbad), or by phone or online order. On the other hand, its modest price tag -- $20 -- more than compensates for its relative inaccessibility.
After finishing this entry, I'm more than ready to make toddies a thing of the past.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Albarino: a classy white that deserves much more love
Stop me if you've heard me say this before, but here's my advice whenever you've got a chance to try a varietal or a region you've never sampled before: Take the bull by the horns -- or, rather, the glass by the stem -- and go for the gusto.
(Besides, I'd mentioned in my first blog that I'd focus on varietals, regions, and labels that routinely miss the attention of better-known wine mavens and publications. With that in mind, I went ahead and wrote about -- what else? -- California Cabs. Talk about my going back on my own word!)
Anyway, to stick with my original concept of writing about under-the-radar wines, I'll get going with one of my all-time favorite white varietals: Albarino. A white varietal that's native to both the Rias Biaxas region of northwest Spain and the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, it first came to our attention in early 2006 when The Better Half and I visited SecondEmpire (http://www.second-empire.com/) during a trip to Raleigh, N.C. Since we both were in an adventurous mood while we checked out SecondEmpire's wine menu, we both agreed upon a Spanish white with an exotic-sounding name and a mouth-watering description of its flavors. And while the '04 Albarino we'd had with our meal (I can't remember the wine's producer or label, to my regret) was still recovering from the final stages of bottle shock, its vibrant, distinctive scents and flavors of citrus, peach, passion fruit, and lime with a hint of "wet rocks" minerality really rang my bells. Since then, I've been on a mission to locate this crisp, intensely lovely and distinctive Spanish white.
Unfortunately, the chances of your local grocery store's stocking Albarino are about as good as being able to purchase the Brooklyn Bridge for a five-spot. That's why it's worth it to drive to your local top-flight wine shop and make a beeline to the "Spanish Whites" section. (With gas hovering around $3.50 a gallon, you might even want to ask a fellow wine fan to carpool with you, just in case you live a goodly distance from your nearest wine shop.) One positive trend of Albarinos is their increasing affordability: When TBH and I had our first sip of the varietal almost three years ago, it was often priced slightly north of $20. In October '08, however, a typical bottle of this shellfish-friendly white will now set you back $15 or a bit less. If that isn't good wine news, what is?
Here's one of my favorite Albarinos. If your local wine shop doesn't have it in stock, ask the buyer to see if he or she would consider including it as a regular item. (It's a worthy point. Truth be told, how many wine shops are overstocked on Albarino?) If the answer's no, be ready to special-order a case. Of course, you'll need to pay ahead of time, but you'll probably get the standard 10 percent discount on a case purchase.
LICIA 2005-06 ALBARINO/RIAS BIAXAS: ABOUT $14
100% Albarino. Long recognized as Spain’s major white grape, Albarino hails from Rias Biaxas, a region in the northwestern portion of the country. The varietal itself is one of the world’s most exotic and memorable, thanks to its complex aromas and flavors -– lemon, lime, apricot, peach, white pepper, ginger, and anise -– mixed with its intense acidity, its surprisingly full body, and distinctive “spritziness.” Not only does the Licia Albarino offer everything that makes this varietal so distinctive, it pulls everything together with elegance and balance. Since world-class Albarinos under $20 are about as common as Halley’s Comet, this bright (and totally affordable) star in the wine universe is one to relish. It’s an understatement to say it’s a natural with paella, mahi-mahi, shellfish, or poultry.
~ Cheers!
(Besides, I'd mentioned in my first blog that I'd focus on varietals, regions, and labels that routinely miss the attention of better-known wine mavens and publications. With that in mind, I went ahead and wrote about -- what else? -- California Cabs. Talk about my going back on my own word!)
Anyway, to stick with my original concept of writing about under-the-radar wines, I'll get going with one of my all-time favorite white varietals: Albarino. A white varietal that's native to both the Rias Biaxas region of northwest Spain and the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, it first came to our attention in early 2006 when The Better Half and I visited SecondEmpire (http://www.second-empire.com/) during a trip to Raleigh, N.C. Since we both were in an adventurous mood while we checked out SecondEmpire's wine menu, we both agreed upon a Spanish white with an exotic-sounding name and a mouth-watering description of its flavors. And while the '04 Albarino we'd had with our meal (I can't remember the wine's producer or label, to my regret) was still recovering from the final stages of bottle shock, its vibrant, distinctive scents and flavors of citrus, peach, passion fruit, and lime with a hint of "wet rocks" minerality really rang my bells. Since then, I've been on a mission to locate this crisp, intensely lovely and distinctive Spanish white.
Unfortunately, the chances of your local grocery store's stocking Albarino are about as good as being able to purchase the Brooklyn Bridge for a five-spot. That's why it's worth it to drive to your local top-flight wine shop and make a beeline to the "Spanish Whites" section. (With gas hovering around $3.50 a gallon, you might even want to ask a fellow wine fan to carpool with you, just in case you live a goodly distance from your nearest wine shop.) One positive trend of Albarinos is their increasing affordability: When TBH and I had our first sip of the varietal almost three years ago, it was often priced slightly north of $20. In October '08, however, a typical bottle of this shellfish-friendly white will now set you back $15 or a bit less. If that isn't good wine news, what is?
Here's one of my favorite Albarinos. If your local wine shop doesn't have it in stock, ask the buyer to see if he or she would consider including it as a regular item. (It's a worthy point. Truth be told, how many wine shops are overstocked on Albarino?) If the answer's no, be ready to special-order a case. Of course, you'll need to pay ahead of time, but you'll probably get the standard 10 percent discount on a case purchase.
LICIA 2005-06 ALBARINO/RIAS BIAXAS: ABOUT $14
100% Albarino. Long recognized as Spain’s major white grape, Albarino hails from Rias Biaxas, a region in the northwestern portion of the country. The varietal itself is one of the world’s most exotic and memorable, thanks to its complex aromas and flavors -– lemon, lime, apricot, peach, white pepper, ginger, and anise -– mixed with its intense acidity, its surprisingly full body, and distinctive “spritziness.” Not only does the Licia Albarino offer everything that makes this varietal so distinctive, it pulls everything together with elegance and balance. Since world-class Albarinos under $20 are about as common as Halley’s Comet, this bright (and totally affordable) star in the wine universe is one to relish. It’s an understatement to say it’s a natural with paella, mahi-mahi, shellfish, or poultry.
~ Cheers!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Is a "big name" any guarantee of quality? Hardly
And to think we'd waited six years for this ...
Shortly before Christmas '02, The Better Half and I attended a holiday party, hosted by the founders of a local wine club. (When I use the phrase wine club, I don't mean the sort that a person joins to have two wines sent to his or her home each month. This club, truth be told, is merely a gathering of folks who, despite their claims of being on the lookout for fine wine, are happiest guzzling down grade-Z plonk guaranteed to burn throats and provide two-day hangovers.)
Anyway, one time-honored tradition of the group's annual holiday shindig was the gift exchange. Lucky recipients found themselves with a decent bottle, whereas less-fortunate ones ended up with stuff that'd make Robert Parker award Beringer White Zinfandel with a score of 95. When we took our wine out of the bag -- a '99 Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon -- fellow partiers murmured "ooh" and "ahh."
Last month, we learned, that bottle most definitely did not deserve their adoration.
One of the results of the economy's free fall is our dining creatively. That's also a result of TBH's being laid off in January 2006 from his terrific executive position, as was everyone else from his department, from the massive insurance company for which he toiled for nearly 16 years. Right now, he's earning about a third of his former salary as a manager of Internet car sales. What this means, kind reader, is that a birthday dinner in 2008 means heading out to Mimi's Cafe with a bottle primed for a $1 corkage. (Before his layoff, our b-day celebrations involved going to pretty great spots in downtown Long Beach -- The Madison, Sir Winston's, L'Opera, or The Sky Room -- all places where it's easy to part with $250 for a pre-dinner drink, an appetizer, a bottle of wine, two entrees, an after-dinner cordial, and a dessert.)
Anyway, my birthday dinner was our chance to sample that '99 Rodney Strong. "I'll bet it's become really rich and elegant by now," TBH murmured, pulling it from our wine rack shortly before we left for Mimi's.
Rich and elegant, unfortunately, were hardly fitting discriptors for this dull, generic juice.
Shortly before Christmas '02, The Better Half and I attended a holiday party, hosted by the founders of a local wine club. (When I use the phrase wine club, I don't mean the sort that a person joins to have two wines sent to his or her home each month. This club, truth be told, is merely a gathering of folks who, despite their claims of being on the lookout for fine wine, are happiest guzzling down grade-Z plonk guaranteed to burn throats and provide two-day hangovers.)
Anyway, one time-honored tradition of the group's annual holiday shindig was the gift exchange. Lucky recipients found themselves with a decent bottle, whereas less-fortunate ones ended up with stuff that'd make Robert Parker award Beringer White Zinfandel with a score of 95. When we took our wine out of the bag -- a '99 Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon -- fellow partiers murmured "ooh" and "ahh."
Last month, we learned, that bottle most definitely did not deserve their adoration.
One of the results of the economy's free fall is our dining creatively. That's also a result of TBH's being laid off in January 2006 from his terrific executive position, as was everyone else from his department, from the massive insurance company for which he toiled for nearly 16 years. Right now, he's earning about a third of his former salary as a manager of Internet car sales. What this means, kind reader, is that a birthday dinner in 2008 means heading out to Mimi's Cafe with a bottle primed for a $1 corkage. (Before his layoff, our b-day celebrations involved going to pretty great spots in downtown Long Beach -- The Madison, Sir Winston's, L'Opera, or The Sky Room -- all places where it's easy to part with $250 for a pre-dinner drink, an appetizer, a bottle of wine, two entrees, an after-dinner cordial, and a dessert.)
Anyway, my birthday dinner was our chance to sample that '99 Rodney Strong. "I'll bet it's become really rich and elegant by now," TBH murmured, pulling it from our wine rack shortly before we left for Mimi's.
Rich and elegant, unfortunately, were hardly fitting discriptors for this dull, generic juice.
RODNEY STRONG 1999 CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE/SONOMA COUNTY: ABOUT $20
For starters, the nose was as plain and one-dimensional as any I've ever tried in the last decade. Even after we'd swirled the wine in our glasses for five minutes, we were able to pick up only two aromas: plum and prune. In fact, one sip reminded me of a glass of Sunsweet Prune Juice I'd had a few years ago.
Roughly 25 minutes after that, once we were ready for our second glass -- we took our time with that first one with our French onion soup -- tiny notes of black pepper and smoke emerged in both the scent and the flavor. Regrettably, the plum/prune essences became flatter with extended aeration, making the wine itself taste like stale prunes. (Did I forget the wine's ultra-short finish?) To its credit, its full, soft mouthfeel and laid-back tannins cooperated politely with a blackened ribeye we'd had for our dinner entree, as well as a milk-chocolate mousse pie -- an on-the-house birthday treat from our Mimi's server.
With each sip of the Rodney Strong, we remembered the adoring comments made by our fellow party guests from that holiday party nearly six years ago. "Somehow, I just don't think they'd have gone on like that if they knew how dull the wine turned out to be," TBH commented. "Don't bet on it," I replied. "If they had the kind of taste I thought they had, they'd have given it a standing ovation." My bottom line: This bottle, which pushed $20 while it was available in wine shops a few years ago, is far and away one of the lowest-achieving wines we've had in more than a decade, making it the Spicoli of the vineyard. By comparison, the non-vintage Foxhorn "American" Cabernet Sauvignon -- y'know, the magnum that retails for four bones in grocery stores -- shows itself like a 96-point Wine Spectator classic.
Make no mistake, I'm delighted that we had a wonderful birthday dinner, filled with engaging conversation and good humor, given how low on funds we are. If only we could've brought a different, and undoubtedly more intruiging, wine ...
Cheers!
Greetings ... and meet my first under-the-radar wine winner
Over the last few decades, wine fans have been treated to the expertise and elegant prose of a variety of writers, most notably the editors and writers of Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator . Their years of experience in the field itself, as well as their deft way with the written word, marks them as respected professionals the world over.
With their accomplishments uppermost in mind, however, I'll share my own wine-related discoveries, adventures, and joys to readers in "Musings of a Wino," my individual look at a variety of wines, varietals, winemakers, and regions too often overlooked by high-profile -- and handsomely paid -- wine experts. If the troubled economy has dampened wine fans' hopes of locating quality juice, they shouldn't despair: The vast majority of wines I'll review in upcoming blogs are surprisingly easy on the wallet. (Yes, Virginia, it's true: You can enjoy a gorgeously balanced Bordeaux, a plush California Cabernet Sauvignon, or an elegantly nuanced red Burgundy for less than $20.)
Introductions aside, I'm eager to introduce you to one wine I've raved about since I first sampled it two years ago. The varietal is familiar, but the vineyards' location definitely isn't:
BEARTRAP CANYON "BEAR PAW" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001/ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST: ABOUT $19
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. You never know where the next mind-blowing wine will show up. We found this beauty at last year's Orange County Fair: a sumptuous, complex, memorable Cab that's everything the varietal should be. Bill and Elaine Mills, founders and owners of BearTrap Canyon Winery, discovered a sublime location to plant their six acres of vines: on a slope 4,300 feet above sea level roughly 10 miles from the tiny town of Acton in the foothills of the Angeles National Forest. That's where they've cultivated their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for more than 15 years. (The crush, wine making, and cellaring take place in Santa Barbara County, with the juice seeing 20 to 24 months of aging in French oak barrels.) Bill and Elaine's meticulous care in their winecraft is evident: Seductive, full aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and a hint of smoke entice, while the velvety mouthfeel and hauntingly spicy finish linger on the palate. Make no mistake: This is one of the best, most elegant California Cabs I've ever enjoyed -- and an astonishing bargain, too, at its suggested retail price of $19. (Note: At this writing, Bear Paw is available at a few quality wine shops in northern Los Angeles County. If making that trek is out of the question, contact the folks at BearTrap at http://www.beartrapcanyon.com/ to place an order.)
With their accomplishments uppermost in mind, however, I'll share my own wine-related discoveries, adventures, and joys to readers in "Musings of a Wino," my individual look at a variety of wines, varietals, winemakers, and regions too often overlooked by high-profile -- and handsomely paid -- wine experts. If the troubled economy has dampened wine fans' hopes of locating quality juice, they shouldn't despair: The vast majority of wines I'll review in upcoming blogs are surprisingly easy on the wallet. (Yes, Virginia, it's true: You can enjoy a gorgeously balanced Bordeaux, a plush California Cabernet Sauvignon, or an elegantly nuanced red Burgundy for less than $20.)
Introductions aside, I'm eager to introduce you to one wine I've raved about since I first sampled it two years ago. The varietal is familiar, but the vineyards' location definitely isn't:
BEARTRAP CANYON "BEAR PAW" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001/ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST: ABOUT $19
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. You never know where the next mind-blowing wine will show up. We found this beauty at last year's Orange County Fair: a sumptuous, complex, memorable Cab that's everything the varietal should be. Bill and Elaine Mills, founders and owners of BearTrap Canyon Winery, discovered a sublime location to plant their six acres of vines: on a slope 4,300 feet above sea level roughly 10 miles from the tiny town of Acton in the foothills of the Angeles National Forest. That's where they've cultivated their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for more than 15 years. (The crush, wine making, and cellaring take place in Santa Barbara County, with the juice seeing 20 to 24 months of aging in French oak barrels.) Bill and Elaine's meticulous care in their winecraft is evident: Seductive, full aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and a hint of smoke entice, while the velvety mouthfeel and hauntingly spicy finish linger on the palate. Make no mistake: This is one of the best, most elegant California Cabs I've ever enjoyed -- and an astonishing bargain, too, at its suggested retail price of $19. (Note: At this writing, Bear Paw is available at a few quality wine shops in northern Los Angeles County. If making that trek is out of the question, contact the folks at BearTrap at http://www.beartrapcanyon.com/ to place an order.)
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